Yes, I have a mains one. Its a turbo nutter of a drill. Incredible power. I use it as a mixer and for putting 10mm coach bolts in and for large holes with auger bits. No clutch, just a side handle 18" long that you hang on to like grim death!
How about one for nothing?
One aside though I think this thread started or developed as a requirement to drill 25mm in a joist with an angled drill. This 12V Makita only has a 10mm chuck and won't take a 25mm auger which I doubt it could drive anyway without cooking, which the batteries are capable of doing. The angled body is less capable still.
Jim A
I find using a 1000w SDS with hammer off and running slowly has masses of torque. I wouldn't use one to mix cement though. Cheap drills are available specifically for that.
A mains angle drill can do that.
Bosch made a mains drill/driver. I'm not sure if it is still made. I prefer mains drills.
You might be right about an auger - not used them in my angle drill, so can't really comment on how well it copes. However if all you want is a big hole, a spade bit will do it. I have the 14.4V DeWalt angle drill which will spin a 25mm spade bit without any difficulty, and it will do
32mm as well. So I can't see the Mak having that much problem. It will take it a bit longer since it does not have the second gear of the DeWalt, but can match it for torque.
Thinking back to previous job it was probably boring a joist with a 25mm cut down spade which threatened to cook the drill. I note its just within the drill spec so perhaps my spade was getting blunt.
I very much doubt the 12V angled-drill will turn a 25mm spade ( and the 12mm in wood spec doesn't claim so) as typically a Makita angled drill torque is much less than the equivalent voltage drill driver, 44 to 310 in funny units for a current USA market product.
Jim A
Thanks for the reassurance. If I need hammer action I agree I can use my corded drill, or like you say use sds. I bought a cheap sds from Screwfix and was amazed at the difference but I haven't got a collection of sds bits yet. The thing is that both of these other drills are corded which isn't a big problem but I'm lazy and it saves carrying an extension lead! Also why buy a toy with two options when you could buy one with three ;)
Posted letter saying the same to Wickes yesterday ;)
Save that they are quoting a maximum in wood of 12mm and manufacturer's claims tend to be optimistic. This size of hole would be just about OK for 1 2.5 T&E
That is the case. That is why mains angle drills are better. The Kress/Wickes I'm sure will sail through a joist with 25mm , or above, drill bit in it.
How do you "cook" a drill? Does the motor get damaged if you stall it cutting a bigger hole that it can cope with?
By the way, what, if any, bits come with the Wickes drill. Mine had just one pozi drive screw bit. I can't see the point including just that, surely they should I put in a set or nothing at all?
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Fred saying something like:
Most obviously, just mechanical overload and reduced speed leading to overheated windings as less air is fanned through.
You can also bugger up the windings if you stall it by having the armature current passing through one winding for too long.
Even better, keep the drill driver. Excellent bit of kit.
I've always found Makita punches well above its weight. That 12v will easily drill more than 12mm in wood.
Stalling is not a problem, you just release, however how much labouring short of stalling you accept is more a matter of judgement clouded by wanting to get the job done. I realised the 12V Makita was underpowered for the task but its what I had. If you are lucky you will smell burning. If you are very lucky there will be no lasting damage. I think I was very lucky. From a design point of view the 12V Makita batteries are better than the motor unlike my cheapo Lidl 18V where the excellent motor was let down by poor batteries. I don't think you will have a problem with your 15.6V drill drilling 25mm in timber.
Not got the Wickes drill so no idea. If your Wickes drill has a 13mm chuck buy yourself a set of stubby augers, Toolstation 59839 or similar. Much better than spade bits for drilling joists. Then treat yourself to a screw bit set at the same time.
Jim A
I would be surprised if it didn't... my old 9.6V (or for that matter my first 7.2V cordless) could drill a hole with a 19mm spade bit.
Thanks for the link. Looks like a contender.
Having used augers and spades, the difference is like that between SDS and ordinary hammer drill. Is there any situation where a spade bit it better?
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