Kitchen Sinks and Electrical Outlets

Andrew May wibbled on Wednesday 31 March 2010 09:44

Best practice would be >= 300mm as a *rule of thumb*. Just far enough to avoid splashing.

I don't think there are any. Common sense would be the best guide.

I don't know the answer to your question - but I've certainly got 13A outlets *under* the sink for the dishwasher and waste disposal unit - and they were installed less than a year ago under 17th Series by a self-certifying electrician.

With regard to task lighting over the sink, ours is by a window, and we have a boxed-in pipe from the en-suite above going across the ceiling over the sink, and we have some "under-cabinet" lights mounted on the bottom of the box, with a wooden (well veneered to match the kitchen units!) pelmet going full width to hide the box and the lights and make a feature of the whole thing.

I use the >=30cm rule:-)

The NICEIC "recommends" 30cm from the edge of the sink for sockets as best practice but they have never mentioned a pendent light above the sink.

If common sense applies then if your wife cannot bang her head on the pendent light whilst she is doing the washing up then it will be fine.

Adam

Thanks all, that's pretty much what I thought. Depending on the fitting that we find I suspect that the lights will be mounted at around head height and set back from the centre of the worktop. Little chance of banging your head and well out of splashing distance.

Andrew

There is a regulation calling for wiring accessories to be suitable for their environment & likely usage. Indeed, 300mm is the common figure from the sink - not necessarily the strainer. The same 300mm from a hob re trailing cables.

No limitation under a sink, although TBH I would prefer a simple splashproof enclosure (you can buy them, clear or transparent that take a standard wiring accessory allowing cheaper flexibility than say Masterseal).

This is one of the few circumstances where a recessed downlighter is the correct light for the job. Use at least two to reduce shadows, and choose ones which can take compact fluorecents, such as the GU10 mains type. Consider having them separately switched from other lighting. Where you have separately switched task lighting for the sink, you might think about using a pull cord switch as it may get operated with wet hands. You can fit this under a nearby cupboard with a short (4") cord.

Another option (which is what I did in the most recent kitchen I've done) is to use a wall mounted uplighter by the side of the window, which in conjunction with a brilliant white ceiling, gives a nice light. I found one which takes a 26W compact fluorescent with separate control gear. If you try to use a retrofit compact fluorescent in one designed to take a standard bulb, you will often find it can only fit the lowest power ones, which aren't good enough.