Kenwood dishwasher 45DX20 - showing F1 fault after being stopped mid cycle.

Apr 16, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 6 Replies

Despite my suggestion to the contrary, SWMBO decided that rather than wait 10 minutes for the dishwasher to finish a rinse cycle (15 minutes) she would pause it while she had her nap (because the f***ing thing beeps like a trooper when it's finished).



Of course 2 hours later, when she woke up, it was "running" (i.e. something was making a noise). Closing the door caused a series of nasty beeps and now:


- when power is applied the machine is making a noise, despite panel lights being off.


-trying to turn on at the panel needs to hold the buttons down.


- pressing the program button for 3 seconds for a program reset does nothing.


- after a few minutes turned on at the panel and trying to run a cycle the display flashes a code: "F1".



Now cursory scan suggests this error means somehow the base has flooded and needs emptying. This is particularly annoying as having literally just got home from eye surgery, I am forbidden from breathing, let alone throwing a sodding dishwasher around.



So the questions is how gospel is "F1" Could it mean some other fault state ? If it genuinely refers to a flooded bottom then how did simply leaving it midcycle result in such a major fault ?



TIA


I'd guess that the noise is it trying to pump itself out, which it could do if it thinks there's water somewhere there shouldn't be. Not sure how leaving it mid cycle might have caused a flood, but perhaps the water doesn't normally sit in there for long periods (it's continually being sloshed and then drained) and some seal isn't as good as it could be. The aquastop is often very sensitive and will trip with a tiny amount of water (teaspoons).

I'd suggest just leaving it. Eventually the water underneath will dry out and it'll be back to normal. You could point a fan heater or a dehumidifier at it if you're feeling keen.

Theo

My diagnosis was the same as yours - that sitting water needs a deeper seal than for running water and that meant something did sneak past a seal.

After looking at some YT videos (which will be impossible in a years time, I reckon) I removed the bottom filter and mesh and sponged the water I found below out. Then left it for a day and when power was restored, it seemed to be back to rights. It's done a couple of full cycles now, so panic over.

My current dishwasher has a float switch in a tray. I think some spilled water from a couple of glasses, that were not emptied before being put in, travelled down the open door and under the machine. It worked again after a day of standing to let the water evaporate.

My previous dishwasher had a micro-switch held closed by a sponge. If the sponge got wet, it'd soften and allow the micro-switch to move. It could only be reset by squeezing out the sponge and leaving it to dry with no pressure on it. That one actually tripped without any water, just by the years of pressure from the micro-switch deforming the sponge. Wetting it, squeezing it out and leaving to dry sorted it out for more years of use.

reviving this, as after thinking the problem was solved ... it returned.

TL;DR is that removing the dishwasher from under the counter (why oh why did I not use longer piping when I fitted it) and removing top and sides, and running on a towel, I saw water leaking from the LHS. Very careful inspection showed that it was dripping onto the plastic assembly that I guess is the ion exchanger from above.

Looking all over the inside, I discovered to my surprise that the screw ring that holds the neck of the salt aperture was finger loose. And of course this seals the wet inside of the dishwasher from the outside on the ... LHS of the machine.

Have tightened said collar, and put the machine on the patio in the sun to really dry out.

Wish me luck this evening when I retry it ! But thought I would post in advance ;)

When I had a similar problem, it turned out the plastic screw ring had perished through long exposure to hot water and chemicals. It was there but loose because the thread had pulverised to nothing. Luckily Miele had a spare part for a 30 year old machine.

Theo

Well, touch wood, reinstalled machine - ran it for 2x30 minute cycles and it's bone dry underneath. So I'm going to call it job done.

Takeaway here is that in hindsight I should have used longer pipes to allow me to run the machine on the floor to inspect all round.

It's only 3 years old and doesn't have massive usage. Looking at the seal it's still viable. Just the collar had come loose - either because it slipped by manufacturer or had shaken loose in the interim.

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