En el artículo , F escribió:
They are unnerving. On mine, the element and cylinder were old and the chances of getting it out without damage were low. All that was wrong was the cable had embrittled and the outer insulation begun to crack, so as a belt and braces measure I replaced the cable with heat resistant type, put some heat shrink sleeving over the connections under the cap and let the heat from the element do the job of shrinking it.
Suggest that if the immersion header is in a usable state (i.e. wired in, ready for someone to plug in/switch on), then a working thermostat is probably of greater priority than a timer. Shouldn't have to rely on users knowing the specifics of a system (don't heat the water for more than X minutes) to make it fail-safe. Timers can fail, settings can get changed etc and could end up with a dangerous situation, which reminds me of this:
We had something similar happen, although less dramatic and in an spare bedroom (steaming water coming down the light fitting and onto a bed whilst we were out) shortly after we moved into a property and had turned on the immersion heater and forgotten about it. The thermostat was either faulty or non-existent. We removed the wiring to the immersion heater until we replaced the cylinder some years later and put in a new immersion heater.
D
I disagree completely. Mechanical timers make a noise and don't keep accurate time. Digital timers are silent and are as accurate as a digital watch. I can see no reason you'd have anything against a digital timer.
F
How is less than 3kW eco? It just takes longer to heat the tank.
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My Wife was at the beauty shop for two hours. That was only for the est= imate. She got a mudpack and looked great for two days. Then the mud fell off.=
And wastes a bit more heat in the process, so actually uses more energy than a rapid heat-up. But that's Euro-logic for you! Goes with the proposed ban on high-power kettles, toasters, you-name-it.
And I remembered correctly: scary!
There is a thermostat and it was wound all the way up to maximum at 180C!
It's now down at 60C.
Now I just need to find a timer at a reasonable price.
I'm not particularly interested in the author of any post, or their pseudonyms. I take what they say at face value, and either respond or ignore, as the feeling takes me. FWIW, I tend not to read most of Mr Macaw's posts, mainly because they're on subjects that don't interest me.
En el artículo , F escribió:
Sure that's not Fahrenheit? 180F = ~82C
If your immersion was really able to reach 180C, boiling-over would be the least of your problems :)
Hogg
Stop using common sense in this group, you're just confusing the dimwits= .
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A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text. Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing? A: Top-posting. Q: What is the most annoying thing on newsgroups and in e-mail?
Doh! I'm so used to using C that I forgot to add the F!
As it happens, the thermostat may well be pretty much stuck 'on'. Set to
120F (I decided to reduce it a little bearing in mind the risk of pain to the unwary) it is getting pretty hot. Winding the adjuster back and forth a few times elicits clicks most, but not all, of the time.The only positive outcome today has been the opportunity to use my Aldi 'headlamp' for the first time. Seriously useful.
You forgot your own name?:-)
Your first job should be to swap the old stat for a dual safety stat that uses these new fangled Cs. It's actually quite easy in most cases (apart from when a plumber passes a pipe across the top of it etc).
Post a photo of what you have if you are not sure.
The 18" stats, the most common size, are £10.79 in SF.
mer will be adequate.
e a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat will be ins ide the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a pocket so it can b e replaced without draining down the cylinder.
Even 38 year old immersion heaters had a thermostat. Very likely yours is faulty & needs a new one. Easy to obtain and fit. Remove cap on immersion heater & withdraw. If it's very tight there may be a leak on the 'stat tube and corrosion. In which case you will need a complete new immersion heater
The best save you can make is to up the insulation on your tank. Also if you use lots of water, think economy seven. But may not be worth it.
A timer is useful if you use hot water at regular times and have a bath as opposed to shower.
Thanks. Image at
As I was on Economy 7 I installed a timer some ~30yrs ago - it was/is fully mechanical but a modern equivalent looks like:
I also had a switch between the timer and the tank so that I could turn the immersion heater off without messing with the timer.
If you ever have to remove the thermostat don't waste your time with a cheapo spanner. I struggled and started to buckle the top of the tank and then bought a box spanner for a couple of quid more and it worked immediately.
Just to bring things up-to-date, I discovered how easy it was to take the thermostat out, found it was a seven inch version, picked one up from Screwfix (thanks, Adam) and it's installed and working. So far!
Thanks, all, for the help. I'm now educated in immersion heater thermostats and didn't end up, as I was expecting, having to buy and install a complete new heater assembly, something I wasn't looking forward to.
...and what a lot of people don't notice is that anticlockwise adjustment INCREASES the temperature.
Peter
En el artículo , F escribió:
Noah called, he wants his stat back.
Told you it was easy.
The cable feeding the stat is most interesting. It looks like a 3 core flex with a bare earth.
Is the timer because the tank was boiling when the immersion was left on or for convenience to save you manually switching the HW on and off?
If you are still happy to use a switch and are just forgetting to turn it off then you might be better using something like
Never doubted you!
2 core with a bare earth and seriously thick and heavy. Over-specced might be an understatement!Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
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