Immersion Heater Timer wiring.

Round at my brother-in-law's house today. He has an airing cupboard on the landing and inside the cupboard is a fused switch for the immersion heater. Wiring is conventional :- mains cable goes into the switch and flex goes from the switch to the immersion heater. He has bought a digital immersion heater timer from Screwfix so that he can have the immersion heater coming on and going off automatically during the summer months when he doesn't use his (oil fuelled) boiler. He's a bit baffled by the switch and was asking my advice on how to connect it. For a start there are only two connections inside the timer - for live in and live out. No connections for neutral or earth. Also the instructions state that the wiring (in and out) must be solid copper which complicates matters because of the flex going to the immersion heater. So...............how would one go about wiring up this timer between the fused switch and the immersion heater? Any offers? The only way I could think of would be to ignore the advice on solid copper and still use the flex. Have cable from the fused switch into a junction box and then flex from the j.box to the timer. remove outer insulation from the flex and cut the live wire and connect that through the timer - leaving the neutral and earth to continue on to the immersion heater. Seems a bit 'Heath Robinson'ish' however.

Kev

Reply to
Uno Hoo!
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On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 19:07:28 +0100, "Uno Hoo!" scrawled:

Er, yeah, kinda! Without seeing the clock I'd be inclined to run the flex into and out of the bottom of the timeclock, remove the outer insulation and just cut the live, kind of like you said but without the JB. Depends how much room there is in the clock though.

TBH, my mate buys loads of electrical crap from Screwfix and it all looks a bit Heath Robinson as it's all cheap s**te, so dunno really. Personally, I'd bin it!

Reply to
Lurch

I presume that the timer is battery operated - so doesn't needs mains to drive the clock?

Can he get at the cable feeding the FCU? If so, he may be able to strip the outer insulation, insulate the earth conductor if it's bare, and cut the live - feeding the 2 cut ends into the switch. That way he would comply with the instruction to use solid copper, and wouldn't disturb the flex.

Reply to
Set Square

On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 21:43:19 +0100, "Set Square" scrawled:

I'd like to see the clock covered by the isolator though, ideally. Although as it's only a battery powered thing in this instance so probably not strictly neccesary.

Reply to
Lurch

There isn't really any room inside the switch. You can see it at:

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?_dyncharset=UTF-8&q=&n=17981-38&pn=1&pd=1&pi=1&cn=1&cd=1&x=11&y=9I suppose he can feed cable into and out of the switch and then use a jnctn box to make the change-over to flex for the final run to the immersion heater.

Kev

Reply to
Uno Hoo!

There is an internal battery that is re-charged from the mains. SFAICR I think the instructions say that the settings are maintained for up to six months after power is cut.

Yes - that would be a possibility - although I think he would prefer to be able to isolate the timer by having it on the 'load' side of the fused switch. I suppose it would be possible to connect mains cable from the fused switch, through and out of the timer, and then into a junction box where the flex could be connected.

Kev

Reply to
Uno Hoo!

Something doesn't stack up there, Kev. How can it get any power from the mains to charge the battery if there's no neutral connection?

Reply to
Set Square

Hmmmmmmmm... yes, that didn't occur to me. I'll take another look at the device next time I'm around there!

Kev

Reply to
Uno Hoo!

If you are going for a junction box, how about:

A new piece of cable from the isolator to the JB Another from the JB to the timer - live out, red sleeved neutral return Flex from the JB to the immersion heater.

ie, wire the timer like a light switch, and the JB like a ceiling rose.

Reply to
Nick Atty

Excellent idea - thanks for the suggestion!

Kev

Reply to
Uno Hoo!

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