Just assembling an Ikea wardrobe: nothing fancy, but nicer than I could build from scratch for the same money.
There's a fixing pack missing: the panel-type pins for securing the thin MDF back to the sides, top and base.
Ikea customer support is effectively shut down at the moment: the contact details are missing from their website, and their Facebook and Twitter presence is close to zero. Does anyone know a sneaky back-door way of getting in touch?
I'm perfectly happy to buy some of the necessary pins, but I don't know if there's a correct technical term to search for.
The pins are 20mm long, 6mm diameter heads, with the parallel part of the shank grooved. Any thoughts will be gratefully received. Thanks.
Ikea now (or they did when I helped SIL put his wardrobe together) package the pins with a handy plastic guide that holds the pin in exactly the right distance in from the edge.
I've now discovered the name: annular ring nails. Several outlets list something similar, but from the illustrations all are considerably chunkier than the example I have from a previous Ikea purchase, and I'm not too keen on driving them into the edges of the thin MDF panels.
That's an interesting thought, and it would remove the possibility of the side panels splitting or bulging with the nails.
I've never used any Gorilla adhesives. Are they instant-grab? I suspect there would inevitably be some seepage inside the unit and it would be good to be able to put it upright for cleaning this off without the back coming adrift,
Yes, Gorilla Glue does expand, so you need to keep an eye on it as it sets. I've used it to fix scews in hinges that have worked loose because of ageing. Works well.
FWIW I think you would probably be OK with "ordinary" panel pins too, especially if you help it with a bit of glue. As you point out the issue with glue is often seepage. I take it that one of the faces in contact is "bare" MDF, what is the other? For unpainted wood/mdf/plywood contacts indoors I'd use ordinary PVA type woodworking adhesive. Easy to wipe off any extrusion after the whole lot is pinned in place.
I don't think you can wipe off the polyurethane type gorilla glue easily. I've only used it on "rough" carpentry, in that case you can trim it with a knife or chisel after it has half or fully set (but likely to leave a mark in the second case).
Ah, sorry about that. No, the ribs are around the shank (presumably for better grip in the core of the MDF/chipboard) and the shank itself is not much more than 1mm diameter.
I'm afraid not, but I'm pleased to know about that site, so thanks.
The back panel is "veneered" MDF) which usually means it has a printed paper covering, I think, And the contact is with the bare edges of the main panels (which on close inspection look more like chipboard than MDF).
Thanks for the tip about the unwipeability of the Gorilla glue.
IME the panels on the back of IKEA furniture are just dust shields and have absolutely no external load put on them so ordinary panel pins should be fine . Use more if you need reassurance .
I would not recommend glue of any water as if you do use glue you are not allowing the backboard to move with humidity/temperature changes. Even if with MDF, hardboard this movement should be minimal.
Do not know where you are but the local(ish) IKEA (Straiton, actually MILES away but it is the nearest) is open; with dividers, everyone wiping down all the time, all that . So you may want to check on-line if your local IKEA is open and get some of the FREE spares from the checkouts (you may want to phone them before making a trip).
IKEAs seem to be allowed to open as they sell mattresses (no really) this may only be Scotland though.
Ikea furniture used to come with a wee spacer for panel pins [1] as they have to be placed far enough from the edge so as not to split it but they have to go into the actual wood frame of the piece of furniture.
Last time I assembled furniture from IKEA it did not have this spacer (luckily I had saved a few from before so used them). So I do not know if IKEA always supply these spacers (they used to). They are not strictly necessary but do speed the job up but I am sure with even a modicum of luck/skill you will be fine.
I got a rather nice - and very heavy - double wardrobe via ebay. It was in a shop in town for double the price+delivery. Had to assemble it in one bedroom then, minus doors and back, move it to another bedroom. This involved sort of being inside it to lift it, with a couple of inches spare on height. I realised that the only way to move it, e.g. to another house, was to dimantle it. Rather than use the pins provided for the back I used small st. st. pan-head self-tappers. Drilled pilot holes so that the back didn't split and used about the same number.
Yes, the back panels are critical to prevent 'racking'. You can still get some on big cupboards and wardrobes where the back panel is in more than one section, joined by a 'H' section strip and you don't use enough pins in the side panels.
I have glued a few flat pack units during construction, especially when 1) they have been built and disassembled more than once and it was likely to be the last time and 2) it was small enough to be moved complete and needed to be 'strong'. I typically use something like Evostick (because of the coatings in some surfaces) and sparingly on all but the most rough / absorbent surfaces.
I used our a few months ago (during lock down) and they were running C&C and still are. Not sure how that might work re CS but if you could arrange a replacement pack it could be C&C'd?
Another handy use of a 3D printer, making all sorts of jigs and guides quickly, easily, accurately and cheaply (once you have one of course). ;-)
Contact details are present on the web site, just very, very well hidden.
Our phone number is: 0203 645 0000 Calls will be charged at your standard network rate. Our contact centre opening hours are: Mon-Sat: 07:00 - 20:00 Sun: 07:00 - 19:00
There is also a chatbot.... ... for a short cut google "Ikea Help Line" which produces the same number
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