hi there have fitted various pieces of plasterboard (baseboard i think with square edges) in a cupboard to box in a soil pipe and also cut a piece for the ceiling which i've stuck on. got gaps around the edges and joins plus the indents from screws. just wondered how to finish it. want to paint straight on without having it all skimmed. finish isnt crucial as its just a cupboard! so my questions.. i've got general purpose filler and grabs like nails plus filler knives etc. can i make do with this stuff to fill the gaps and indents? in my diy book it talks about jointing tape, filler and special cement. last question , after making good the gaps etc, does the plasterboard need priming before painting (as per diy book) or can it just be painted straight on? appreciate replies
how to finish plasterboard in a cupboard
Oct 28, 2008
13 Replies
Decorators' caulk and emulsion.
Owain
Caulk will certainly give an "acceptable" result (its what I did last time I needed to line cupboards). If you want something a bit posher, then buy a bag of board fill in wickes and use that, slap it in all the dings and gaps and sand it a bit when done.
Emulsion all over, no need to prime.
Dec caulk is surely ok for small holes but it can't be sanded . Easy for me to say but I have a large drum of Gyproc Joint Cement and it gives an excellent finish .It's meant for between plasterboard joins ..maybe the Wickes stuff is similar
and cheap filler, then cheap lining paper and then
what is caulk? is it the same as grabs like nails?
Yup, caulk you can just fill and wipe about - a much more aethetically pleasing result than gaps etc, but not "finished" as such. The board fill / cement route will give a first rate finish (as good or better than skimming) if sanded nicely. (I think the wickes one is a British Gypsum branded one rather than their own brand. I only mentioned them since they are usually quite cheap for plaster related products)
No.It's not made for use as an adhesive ...altho' it might stick some things .I've never tried . It's for filling small gaps prior to decorating .It can be painted over . It comes in tubes like silicone .It can be painted unlike silicone .It can't be sanded .
Its a water based acrylic mastic designed for general touching up when decorating. Very smooth and easy to wipe into small gaps etc. Water soluble so easy to clean up.
Loads of brands to choose from, e.g.:
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remains slight flexible, but it does shrink a little on curing, and can't be sanded.
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Sort of. Its a sort of thick glue/thin putty like acrylics substance that comes in a tube like silicone sealer, bit it can be painted and cleaned up with water, (till it sets).
Marvelous stuff. Its JUST flexible enough not to crack when plasterboard corners shift slightly.
I've just had a go with the Wickes Plasterboard Jointing Compound (ready mixed type in a tub). It isn't half runny! As a result it shrinks like mad as it dries and takes about three coats to cover the jointing tape and then fill to a flush surface. Sands nicely in the end though.
Also does a good job of filling the screw heads used to fix plasterboard but as with the main joints, the shrinkage during drying means it takes 2-3 coats.
Note they do also do a powdered one which is meant for the initial fixing of joining tapes but NOT recommended to give a super smooth finish. It also dries in an hour apparently. I wasn't in a hurry so I just used the ready-mixed type for both purposes - fixing the tapes and then finishing the joints - maybe that's why I had such shrinkage problems.
Regards, Simon.
Not tried the ready mixed stuff - only the dry. That is a brilliant white and ice and easy to sand to a very fine finish.
Are you sure you don't need to stir the tub?
As I said earlier I used the Gyproc joint cement ..I don't think stirring it is needed but in most cases I filled screw holes with just one application ..then maybe a slight sanding with very fine paper
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