paper or mesh plasterboard jointing tape?

[alan_m]

I?m about to lower and plasterboard a ceiling. The existing ceiling and ornate coving is too far gone for a (economic) repair and plaster skim. The lath and plaster flat part of the ceiling has been skimmed in the past but is now showing irregular cracking I suspect because the original plater has parted from the laths.

I intend to use a metal grid structure designed for this purpose to which all edges and the centre of each plasterboard sheet are attached ? the plasterboard screws screw directly into the metal structure.

If possible I would like not to go to the expense of skimming afterwards. This leaves just taping and filling the gaps. Most of the joins in the flat part of the ceiling will be to tapered boards but there will be some smaller butt joins with no taper, There is also the gap or join where the new ceiling meets the walls. I?m fully aware of the techniques on taping and filling so that the joins, when painted, become virtually invisible ? staggering non-tapered butt joints and feathering out over 6 to 12 inches etc.

Now the question. Which tape to use, paper or mesh? Many years ago I just used paper jointing tape. Various Youtube videos show both being used however it?s often unclear why one person uses the two different types on the same job. Mesh tape may not give as crisp 90 degree corner where a ceiling meets a wall and mesh tape may require a heavier grade of faster setting jointing compound to make sure that it stays in place. Paper tape may bubble whilst drying if not wetted enough with compound whilst being installed but a lighter weight compound that is easier to sand can be used.

In the instructional videos the tape used may be down to personal preference and based on the speed of installation by a highly skilled operative. I have no time problems and can wait a day for jointing compound to dry before apply second or third coats.

Has anyone any experience with either of the two types of tape and which jointing compound was used?

[Andy Burns]

I get on better with the self-adhesive mesh tape, and a big tub of Gyproc ready-mixed joint cement, as far as the wall/ceiling junction I re-coved it.

[tabbypurr]

IME paper tapes tend to partly come off later.

NT

[alan_m]

I may consider coving if the result turns out badly but its not a square shaped room and requires 12 off angles none of which will be truly 90 degrees.

Using a laser level to mark the datum for the new dropped ceiling has shown that the existing ceiling height varies by around 3 cm over 2 metres. It's a 2.3m (9 foot) high ceiling so not particularly noticeable.

[RJH]

I did one wall into a corner, using paper. It struck me that paper was thinner than the mesh so would be easier to cover with the drywall paste. Worked very well, and the paper's built in crease seemed to sort out the corners. I did take the trouble to get purpose made spreader and corners tool - I'm sure they made a difference.

And I did have my eye on those dry wall sanders in Aldi the other month, but decided that'd be a tool too far.

[alan_m]

I didn't see the recent offering but I purchased one (or similar) around

5 years ago. It was bulky and produced a lot of dust and has since gone to the tip.

A much better tool is the sanding plate on the end of a pole and mesh sanding sheets. The pole makes sanding easier and the dust just drops to the floor rather than filling the room.

[T i m]

Why would you take something functional to the tip, rather than just giving it away?

<snip>

Cheers, T i m

[alan_m]

Most of the working stuff that goes down the tip has already been at the front of my driveway with a notice saying free for anyone that can make use of it. I usually include the manual in a plastic bag taped to the equipment. Most of the stuff I put out this way goes but in this case it was still unwanted after two days of putting it out.

My local tip now has a recycle shop where you can hand in working equipment and other items for resale.

[T i m]

<snip>

Ok ...

Ok.

That's a good idea.

So, did you hand your sander in there?

Cheers, T i m

p.s. We went to Wood Green Animal centre (Godmanchester) and out the front of their 'charity shop' were loads of cages and plastic beds that people had given to them and they were in-turn giving away, simply because they were inundated with them. ;-(

[RJH]

Good to know, thanks

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I fairly recently fitted an artificial cornice to my Victorian living room. The original had gone due to war damage - long before I bought this house. I got the closest match I could to next doors - theirs is still original.

I do have a decent sliding compound mitre saw.

The artificial stuff is quite flexible unlike plaster. And my ceiling were anything but perfectly square.

Still very pleased with the results - but it's not cheap. And don't skimp on the adhesive or use a cheap one.

[alan_m]

No, because the re-use shop is a fairly recent addition to the tip. However it did go in the small item electrical cage which I suspect was picked over by the staff at the time for boot sale items. The staff have always tended to watch what is going into the massive general waste skips and redirect anything that looks reasonable to a pile near their tea making container :) I think they have always redirected bikes and bike parts to a local charity that gives work experience refurbishing them.