Which plasterboard for bathroom ceiling?

Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down, so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down all the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I replace it with? Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a bathroom?

Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am not too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I expect would be fairly tricky. How does taping and filling work when it comes to covering the screws? I am aware that you simply tape and fill the tapered edges at the joins, but am confused as to what happens with the screw heads where the board is screwed to a joist mid-board IYSWIM.

Thanks in advance, Richard.

Reply to
Richard Conway
Loading thread data ...

1.25mm minumum 15mm a bit better.

Foil definitely recommended.

If you get the correct screws and screw below surface and fill, that isn't bad..taper edges tape and a bit of filler will solve the joins. I hate plastering too.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

I used the 9.5mm board at suitable centres when doing my bathroom but that was a false ceiling ,the original being some 2 feet above . As I was lifting the part boards myself that was another reason for using the thinner board ....That was awkward enough...I can't comment on the desirabilty of using foil backed board .

I used tapered edge board and used fibreglass tape and joint filler ...there is a bit of sanding required but if you are careful when filling the joints this can be kept to a minimum..

As for the screws ,thats no problem The screws dimple in the plasterboard paper ( make sure they DO go in properly and straight) and you simply use jointfiller again and sand it down and they disappear when painted .

Stuart

Reply to
anony

Personally I don't like the 9mm stuff and use 12mm. Also if skimmed 12mm provides 30 min fire protection.

Foil won't hurt, but once painted it will be pretty moisture resistant anyway.

Surprisingly ceilings are not really any harder than walls to skim IME - as long as you have a way of reaching them comfortably... (which in my case in a modern house amounts to raise arm above head!)

Just fill em and sand.

Reply to
John Rumm

I'm guessing you mean 12.5mm - I think 1.25mm might be a tad to thin (although it would be easier to put up!)

Why is that the minimum out of interest? Is it in the building regs?

Thought as much - shouldn't cost too much extra as its only a small room.

I don't *hate* plastering, I just don't think I'd do a very good job of it on a ceiling - especially as there is a bathroom suite getting in the way of me ladders :)

Reply to
Richard Conway

I find the thinner stuff breaks too eish sort of solution.

Its peanuts. Its also stronger. IIRC it IS a building reg for bathrooms too. I may be wrong tho.

skimming is a lot nicer ultimately if you are up to it. I am crap at it.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

9.5mm will be fine, unless the ceiling is required to provide fire protection, in which case it must be at least 12.5mm

This is more a function of what's above the ceiling which you haven't said. It never does any harm though.

If you can reach all the ceiling from one place, it's not any harder than a wall. It gets harder the more you have to keep moving ladders around to reach it all.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

That'll make things easier then, a bit less weight to support on my head!

Unused loft space - the whole loft needs re-lagging really which I'll probably try and get round to before the winter kicks in, but that's a job for another thread ;)

As you say, it won't do any harm so probably is worth doing for the extra few quid.

The problem is mainly the bathroom suite which gets in the way a bit. We are planning on replacing this at some point but its the only bathroom in the house so we would have to work around it. I suppose it would be achievable though.

Out of interest, do you have any experience of the tape and fill method? Is it possible to get results comparable with a skim coat?

Reply to
Richard Conway

If you are careful you can get results just as good as a skim. Wickes sells plasterboard sealer in 5L tubs (about =A310) which is painted on. Two coats is meant to give a vapour barrier. Use 12.5mm p/b. Tapered edge 12.5mm vapour check (foil backed is =A39.60 incl vat) from my local builder merchant. Not all BMs stock TE 12.5mm VC. B&Q sell TE

12.5mm (non VC) for =A35.36. Some BMs may charge =A310-20 for delivery if the order is under =A3100 ish, but's saves struggling with boards in the B&Q car park. Drive the p/b screws (better than nails) so they dimple the board but don't break te paper surface. That way the board is still intact and the screw head is just below the board surface allowing it to be filled and sanded. Buy some large rolls of 40 and 100 (or 120) grit sandpaper from Toolstation etc. and some sanding blocks. A 3" and 6" spatual for filling is handy. Most good diy books (Readers Digest, Collins etc.) hace details of the process.
Reply to
nafuk

If you are careful you can get results just as good as a skim. Wickes sells plasterboard sealer in 5L tubs (about £10) which is painted on. Two coats is meant to give a vapour barrier. Use 12.5mm p/b. Tapered edge 12.5mm vapour check (foil backed is £9.60 incl vat) from my local builder merchant. Not all BMs stock TE 12.5mm VC. B&Q sell TE

12.5mm (non VC) for £5.36. Some BMs may charge £10-20 for delivery if the order is under £100 ish, but's saves struggling with boards in the B&Q car park.

Re delivery and BM and B+Q..The latter will deliver ,also at a cost of £20 .That's who I used to get some 8' x 4' Gyproc delivered as I knew they would bring it up two flights to my flat .. whereas BM's are ,in this area anyway,pavement only .

Stuart

Reply to
anony

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.