I'm about to replace a small ceiling (7'4" X 7') with tapered edge plasterboard. I am not skilled enough to do a good job with skimming it so intend to just fill in the joints and paint it. Hence the tapered edges.
It occurred to me that I may have some instances where I will have a square edge butting up against a tapered edge because of the need to cut the boards. I'm sure this can be done but how will it affect the final finish? Surely there will there be humps where this occurs?
You can sort of taper it yourself by cutting at an angle with a stanley knife. Not ideal, but better than nothing
"Wesley" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk:
A ceiling that size (7' 4" X 7' 00") would only have
1 joint when using 2 8x4 boards. So both tapers would meet.--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---
Don't forget to tape/put scrim on the joints to prevent cracks appearing. Ifyou get organised you need no right angle joints on a room so small. The plaster board is almost 8' X 4'. (They nickedabit when it went decimal)
Unfortunately, because of the construction of the house, it would be impossible to fit a sheet of 8X4 through the door or window.
You do have other choices:
I did a wall today, I cut the boards in half on one side and folded them, carried them to where they were needed then unfolded them. With a nice straight cut and keeping the paper on the front intact they were nice and flat when unfolded.
Sounds like a good idea! I could then use 8x4 and not have any square edges. The only problem might be tearing the remaining paper when raising the boards to the ceiling?
R D S wrote in news:f snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Very good method. Have used it many times.
An extra pair of hands usful with large boards on ceiling.
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The Australian way, which I'd never seen in the UK, is to put short edge joins half way between the joists, with a patch (back block) over fixed with cornice adhesive. The join is pushed up slightly and when all set the depression is filled and sanded level. Pic will explain all
access (or more faff).
I can see a variation with an intermediate batten fixed on the line of the edge, above but with a 3mm gap. Wet the floating edge well, push it upwards to the batten and fix temporarily with another batten below on the joint line until dry. On release the deformation should hold and the board edge can be fixed with regular PB screws into the batten above.
If there's a couple of you it will probably go OK.
Yes, 2 people and at the right height, preferably with a scaffolding board to move about on. I've seen milk crates used as supports but no doubt plasterers have a variety of options.
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