[SOLVED] Which plaster?

[Animal]

PB boards on insulation on a solid wall, as a plastering newb which plaster should I use for filling all the gaps, screwheads etc?

[John Rumm]

If you are just filling, or using feather edge PB with taped joints, then get one of the proper "board fill" plasters designed for the job. Easy to apply, super fine, and they sand very easily.

e.g.

If actually skimming, then either multi finish or board finish plaster.

[alan_m]

Are you skimming over all the plasterboard or just filling the joins and screw holes?

[Theo]

Any recommendations for filling larger holes? eg in solid plaster where a lump has broken off (maybe 2" across x 0.5" deep) or plasterboard where there's a tear (somebody's pulled out a hollow wall fixing and left a gash in the PB, maybe 1" across)?

I have some ready mix plaster filler, but it's very sloppy and would just trickle out of a deep hole like that. Acrylic filler would probably work but seems like the wrong thing and I wonder if it would show when painted (not wanting to reskim), or fall out.

Thanks Theo

[RJH]

Yes - I used the all-in-one filler and tape glue, amazing stuff.

Did something similar using Wickes patching plaster - worked fine, just mix to the right consistency. I have bought a bag of plaster (for the same price as a small box) in the past but most just ends up wasted.

[John Rumm]

Either a one coat patching plaster if you want to do it in one fill, or some bonding plaster followed by a skim of a fine filler.

[Kevin Holohan]

I?ve just been repairing plastered walls after the removal of (glued on) skirting and dado rails. Have used Gyproc easi fill 60 which I would recommend. 8? taping knife helped with the application and good finish when sanded which was required more for my lack of technique around pipework etc!

[alan_m]

+1 for Gyproc easy fill 60

I've now put suspended ceilings in 3 rooms (plasterboard on metal framing) and used Gyproc easy fill 60 for all jointing (with paper tape) and filling in the screw holes. The ceilings were not skimmed.

The powder can take a lot more water than you expect and working it for a good 5 minutes will thicken it up and make it creamy without lumps.

If you are NOT skimming the whole area this is not a one coat solution. See Youtube videos on taping the two types of join you possibly have. I've found the videos the "drywall" taping from the Vancouver Carpenter quite informative and useful.

Butt joints

and Tapered joints (stage 1)

With the screw holes you spend a few seconds applying the Gyproc easy fill 60 (referred to as mud in Canadian/USA videos) and then immediately wipe it off in different direction. Once dry repeat twice more. The filler will shrink ever so slightly and by the third coat you may not need to sand it back or if you do it should be no more than a 1 second rub with a fine sandpaper block. Basically don't try and fill in one go and don't overfill by the third application you are only filling very sligh imperfections.

[Animal]

cheers, will go for the knauf joint & fill

[Andrew]

Remember to put self-adhesive fibreglass tape or use proper scrim tape over all the plasterboard joints or you might get movement cracks as the humidity changes over the seasons.

Fibreglass tape is quite cheap and easy to slap on.

[alan_m]

If there are any internal corners or wall to ceiling joins to be taped use paper tape. Mesh tape is not recommended for those applications. Paper tape can be used to taping all joints and is stronger than mesh.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Bollocks it is

[Animal]

got lots of it.

Am wondering about the vb though. The first board had a section of al foil torn off, and I used it before I realised that was maybe not the best idea. I don't suppose some SBR on top would do.

[alan_m]

Your opinion differs from that given in an instructional video from British Gypsum. The advantage of mesh tape is that it is quicker but it is not better for preventing cracks from re-appearing. Paper tape requires one more step to embed the paper in a layer of jointing compound.

Mesh can be used where there is a guarantee that the joint will not move as often is the case in small repairs, but paper can also be used in these cases.

For DIY where there may not be time pressures to complete the job paper is probably the best way to go, especially if there are wall to ceiling joins or internal corners. Why buy two types of tape when paper meets all the needs.

[Animal]

Was very surprised they had no joint & fill type stuff. Only had 1 day to do it so got some one coat. It did the job anyway. It's a bit gritty.