How to connect this built-in oven properly?

If you want a high temperature 2.5mm solid core (Flat Twin & Earth).

- Item 220592367957 on

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- 2.5mm LSF BS7211 6242BH, 90oC XLPE insulation.

- 99p a metre.

They have miss-listed it BS6004 (PVC). However white sheath 6242 in Harmonised colours can only be BS7211 LSOH LSF LSZH 6242BH.

You do not need it though, think someone higher up just did the adiabatic calculation on the minimum required CPC.

Absolutely do not "solder flex ends" to make them solid.

- It is against BS7671 17th.

- Solder cold flow reduces the screw clamping force

- Thermal cycling exacerbates solder cold flow

- Joint becomes slightly loose, solder melts, loose connection

Now, that loose connection will heat the supply conductors back along the cable orange. Hopefully creating a short circuit where the cable/ flex bends and disconnecting the fault. Otherwise it can create a fire. The cooker's internal wiring will be high temperature glass fibre sheathed so will not usually be the the "fuse" in this situation. Obviously the cable connector block and internal wiring may still be a write-off.

This is exactly how a lecturer in 1998 stuffed a Miele Pyrolytic oven that was over =A31200. He tinned the copper fine strands "because that is how they used to be supplied by manufacturers of appliances and you fitted a plug yourself". The supply cable was charcoal, the units scorched, the oven internal wiring stuffed.

Big ovens use metric M5 M6 M8 studs with the fine strand or 7-strand conductors wrapped around between two washers squeezed together by a nut, or a ratchet crimped ring terminal used instead. For the oven design, use a bootlace ferrule - that provides a rigid cold-welded assembly. Might be worth waiting to see what connection the hob presents :-))

Reply to
js.b1
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Good grief don't know what all the fuss is about on this, there are two options to wire a medium powered fitted hob and a low powered fitted oven. The medium powered hob is hard wired via 6mm T&E to a 45A cooker control switch that has a 13A socket outlet, then the 6mm cable runs to the hob, the 2kW fitted oven is wired with 1.5mm 3 core flex (heat resistance can be used but not mandatory). Fit a 13A-fused plug the other end & plug it into the cooker control switch 13A socket.

The second option is the same for the hob but the oven can be hard wired to a

13A switch fused spur, the spur unit can be fed with 4mm/6mm cable from either the cooker control switch or a cooker connection unit but make sure you have a 45mm mounting box for room, then wire a 1.5mm/2.5mm to the 2kW oven. You must have easy access to fuses & switches so do not place anything switched or fused behind fitted ovens, duel cooker connections are also now available that can take up to 10mm cables. The golden rule is you must check the power in watts of each appliance & consider the total wattage for the circuit. It is paramount that you adhere to the appliance electrical wiring instructions. If it states an appliance must have a 13A fuse, then it generally means there is no internal fuse in the oven to protect the fan & mains input wiring & components, a 32A cooker circuit fuse would provide unsuitable protection for the appliance.
Reply to
Jeff

That's nice advice dear. Now f*ck off back to year 2012.

Reply to
ARW

Bzzzzrt - sorry you did not read the question. Please try again.

Reply to
John Rumm

No need to swear Adam your blood pressure is going high, back to 2012 you need to go back further & debate it with Eve, she may get a cooker instead of lighting fires to cook food, oh well Rome wasn't built in a day but it was built a dam site quicker than you making your mind up about installing a cooker.

Reply to
J

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