My caloric oven won't burn properly when the bake button is set. I replaced the ignitor already, but the oven still shows this problem: The ignitor glows, and after a few seconds the burner will light. Then, both the ignitor and burner will continue to burn for about five seconds, and then shut off. What's wrong?
Larry
Larry
Hi,
Model#? Self clean, manual clean? Is the power "lost" at the ignitor when all goes off? Will it/they come back on, on thier own?
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid
That's impossible to say without actually checking it out. It could be caused by an intermittent connection in the wiring, a problem in the oven valve or in the temperature control system. Someone is going to have to check those things *at time of failure* to see where the power to the ignitor stops.
You can read about the various kinds of gas range ignition systems at the following link:
Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems
- Appliance411.com
Just having a high resistance should not account for the ignitor "shutting off" as the OP described. AFAIK, the only thing which would normally interrupt power to the ignitor on most Caloric models is the oven thermostat and that would not be dependent on the resistance in the circuit, just the temperature it sensed.
I guess it could be an intermittent electrical contact in the bake valve but I myself have never seen such a malfunction.
JMO
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
There is no question in my case as to how this worked. What I think is that the resistance of the ignitor is sensed, and that affects the continuation of gas flow. In my case the gas would stay on a shorter and shorter time, take longer and longer to start, as the ignitor got bader and bader. Do what I suggested, it is not hard. Measure the ignitor resistance and check out what it is supposed to be. Also, the schematic that should be somewhere on the stove may give some insight on this. Let us know what you finally find out about this. --Phil
The fact that the ignitor successfully lights the burner seems to clear everything up to that point, ignitor, and oven valve. Temperature control seems likely. I suspect that some sort of sensor checks for temperature rise in the oven and shuts off the gas if none is detected. I'm wondering what exactly does this function.
Larry
The model is RST-376 UW. It is a self cleaning oven. I just now tried it again, and the burner remains lit now, but the ignitor doesn't shut off. SO, I guess I have another set of symptoms now. ??????
Larry
Larry
Hi,
The hot surface ignitor should stay on when ever the flame is burning.
The oven temp sensor may have lost it's value and "thinks" the oven is hotter inside that it really is and shuts it off, temp sensor can be ohmed with an ohm meter ( sorry I don't know the rating of a new one )
Loss of power from the clock assy or relay board( which has relays that can stick on or stick off ). The clock/relay sends 110-120 volts AC to the oven ignitor and gas safety valve ( which are in series with one another )....a loss of power from the clock/relay board could easily allow the oven to start and then quit, these would have to be tested.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid
As I remember our Caloric, it became my understanding that the ignitor either stayed on for safety, or was sensing the flame for safety. These are both quite similar, and if you look at your schematic you will have trouble finding anything that senses the gas burning. A temp sensor in the oven would not respond quickly enough, so what they do (I think!) is sense the current in the sensor, and if it drops too low then the gas goes off. My impression was that as the ignitor aged or was damaged its electrical resistance increased and its current would drop and kick the gas off. Of course the burner running will also effect the ignitor temperature since the flame is very close, if not on, the ignitor, and that would effect its resistance, too. I will be interested too know what you find; this is about it for my experience with this. :-) --Phil
But did the ignitor ever *stop* glowing as the OP reported occurring on his range?
Ignitors will get 'weak' with age and stop the gas valve from opening or they can allow the gas valve to open but the ignitor not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas immediately (ie. delayed ignition) leading the mini-explosions in the oven.
There isn't too much which can cause the ignitor to stop glowing altogether beside a stoppage in its power source.
JMO
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
No.
On a hot surface (ignitor) oven ignition system, the ignitor should glow whenever the burner is on. The ignitor glowing (actually - the specific amount of electrical current allowed to flow through it) is what keeps the gas valve open. No power = no ignitor = no gas.
Glad to hear it's working now. You may just have to use it until the part causing the problem fails once and for all so it can be found.
But I'd look toward the oven control system. The relays on those electronic controls can be flaky.
Caloric RST-376 UW Electronic control
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
Sorry, on that model there is a separate relay board and those relays are not on the electronic control itself. The good news is that if the relay board is required, it is much cheaper than the electronic control.
Caloric RST376 UW Relay Board
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
Well, I think you were right after all. The ignitor evidently glows as long as the burner is on. I turned on the broiler, and observed the same thing. I thought the ignitor was supposed to go out after the burner lit, but I guess not after seeing both of them behave similarly. I think the whole initial problem was a weak ignitor that failed to allow the burner to light, and then eventually crapped out. The oven works fine, now. My wife baked a pizza last night without incident.
Larry.
Nice, but tell us (or me, at least), did you have to replace the ignitor again to get it to work? Or is your new one that did not work now working? Anything else you can share about exactly why you are now thinking it was the ignitor? I also went through some of this -- finally looking at the broiler at the top of the oven and noting how it worked. :-) I have not tried it, but am quite sure that if the electric plug is pulled when the oven or broiler is on, it will go out because of the loss of power. On the other hand, stove burners will not go out when power is lost, since the flow of gas is dependent on a manual valve. Power only drives the sparker which STARTS the gas burning. At least, this is how our ~20-year old Caloric works. --Phil
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.