Of course the obvious thing to do is hinge it at the bottom and let it go down rather than up.
Of course the obvious thing to do is hinge it at the bottom and let it go down rather than up.
fitted to the sides would probably work.
parliament hinge?
>In message <drDEE.242436$ snipped-for-privacy@usenetxs.com, "dennis@home" snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid writes
Indeed :-)
Not so obvious. There is a larger flap, lifting upwards, below the new flap. See discussion here a couple of years ago. Plan is, the new smaller flap (6 inches wide, two feet long) will flap up, hinged on the left, allowing the existing flap (2 feet square) to lift, hinged on the right.
In message <XDDEE.423270$a% snipped-for-privacy@usenetxs.com, "dennis@home" snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid writes
Agreed. The only reason I haven't used that style is there is more 'meat' in the wood from above than from the side.
I will have the same thing once I get round to the harbour section on my layout, but I'll have to make it lift-out, hinge-down or have very tall hinges and scenery to cover them, as the track (N6.5/Nn3 narrow gauge) will be raised a couple of inches higher than the board, as it crosses the N-gauge line before reaching the hinged section and will require a correspondingly high pivot point.
SteveW
There are two hing points per hinge. Distance apart varies.
Harry, I am not sure what you mean. I can certainly make bar flap hinges work, by attaching blocks of wood to the flap and adjoining counter, then mounting the hinges on the blocks, raising the pivot points a minimum of half an inch. That is what I will probably do. What I can't do is mount the hinges directly on the flap and counter.
If you are going to do that you may as well use kitchen cabinet hinges. You can hide them under a building.
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