I open the hinge to 90 degrees and put it on the edge of the door so that the hinge touches both the faces and edge of the door, then draw round it. This puts the hinge pin slightly over the edge of the door.
First you fit the door to the frame. That means you cut and trim the door to suit the frame leaving appropriate gaps all around. A coin thickness (used to be an old penny when wooden doors were made of red pine) about 2 mm each side and top.
Get the frame right first it might want adjusting. You try the door first to find out how bad it is.
When you are happy with the gaps wedge it in situ and mark where you are going to place the hinges. 6 or 7 inches down 8 or 9 inches up looks balanced from a few feet away. A middle hinge is required for heavy doors, outer doors and bathroom doors.
When you have marked both or three hinges, let the three into the door and offer it up again to check your marks. (I neve bothered.) Then cut the housings on the frame.
Fix with 2 screws in each hinge. (Put all of them in the door.) If the closing gap isn't big enough but all else seems OK carry on with the rest of them as the full set of screws will take up the slack and pull the door over just enough -if you have planed a decent leading edge on the sides.
It should slide in right as 9 pence.
The reason you don't put all the screws in at once in the frame side is that you might have dropped a clanger. It makes resetting them a little easier if you haven't drilled all the screw holes.
Don't use the czjdi screws they give you with the hinges unless you pre-drill for them. They are made of titanium paint and chinese clay. The same stuff they use for pencil leads in that benighted country.
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