Have a double glaze UPVC door, it without doubt needs toe & heeling Dropped about 1 cm on the latch side. It is still usable. At the back end of last summer I attempted to sort but not sure what I was doing and didnt have the correct packers so the first decent day will have another go as I got a selection of packers now. My question is .... how much can I `force` the door back to plumb before repacking? Should I be able to correct the 1cm off square ok by forcing.
Most of them are only plastic and a flimsy metal frame, so can't see a cm being much of a problem (obviously with the sealed unit out so you are not fighting any existing packing!)
And that means you have proven that there is something seriously wrong. I assume we are talking about a uPVC door with a full glass panel?
First thing to check is that the frame is square as they can move if not fitted correctly. Use a good square and check each corner. Measure the diagonals and make sure that the measurements are exactly the same.
If the frame is not square it will have to be re-fitted.
Hinge adjustments are for minor misalignment only.
If they are, get a combination set square and set it for 8mm (some doors need a 10mm allowance) and draw a short, say 2 inch, pencil line on each face of the frame either side of the corner. Harder to describe than it seems.
You should end up with "L" shaped pencil lines 8 - 10mm from the inside edge of the opening at each corner.
Also mark a line at the centre of the frame by the centre hinge and striker plate on each side.
The idea is to mark the outer edge of the door at the corners so that the overlap where the sash seal meets the frame can be aligned. Remove the glass panel. On the hinge side put the hinges back to where they were and adjust so that you can see that the sash sits within the pencil lines. Adjust the left/right setting to set the door. The adjustments must be made with the door hanging loosely in the frame, not with the door locked.
Without the panel, the sash should now be equally within the pencil lines at all four corners both horizontally and vertically.
Now you toe the door. I could explain the process but Google will find you diagrams and instructions on how to toe & heel.
Thanks, I will check the frame but I can visually see the door is out of square, if I can take the panel out and physically force back to square then toe & heel then that should do it. The door shuts and locks but the latch catches on closing. If like every other job in here the standard is the same then I wouldnt be surprised if the frame is out but if t & H sorts then I can live with that as I have so many other jobs to do. Moved an island in the kitchen and there were no floor boards under it! The bathroom vent goes into the loft but doesnt exit! The internal doors were fitted opening the wrong way?
You really MUST do the job properly otherwise it will come back to bite you further on down the line. Alignment & squaring is essential to prevent heat loss and draughts. If the work isn't corrected now, you have wasted your money as you have not gained the advantage of the product you have bought.
You must not FORCE anything! You risk splitting the welds if you use too much force.
If the frame is out, toeing and heeling is not going to fix the problem, only help to mask it.
Why do you not make the fitter come back and correct the bodge job he appears to have done. You must have a guarantee? If he is incapable of doing the job, give him the chance to try or refuse and then get someone else in and send him the bill.
Did you just have the door fitted or was it a doors and windows job? You should have at least 10 years insurance backed guarantee, preferably underwritten by the Glass & Glazing Federation.
Ilene, I only moved into this house about 8 months ago and the doors etc were already fitted and I would think a few years back so I dont have any info on who fitted them or when or indeed any certificate. I understand where you are coming from and I have taken on board your info, I will check and correct all that I can when I get a decent day (warmer) for it. In the short term I couldnt afford to get someone out let alone a new door so I need to do the best I can for the moment.
I'm sorry, crossed threads there. I was remembering the other thread I was helping on where the OP said that the fitter was a useless t**t.
Unless the door etc. is 10 years or more old, you should have a certificate and your solicitor should have made sure there was one as it's part of the searches IIRC and shows the installation is up to regulations. Been that way since 2002.
Although the questions are asked as a standard part of the legal process when selling a place, a legitimate combination of answers to the questions about "have any windows/doors been changed?", and "have you got paperwork?" is "yes", and "no, lost it". So you may not have anything...
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