Door opening in a stud wall

There is not really a recommended gap between the liner and the wall. The *important* gap will be the one between the liner and the door. So you want the inside faces of the liner to be about 5mm wider than the door width. Fix the liner with whatever packing is needed so that you achieve that and also get it plumb and square. (it does not matter much how much gap there is between it and the wall, or whether the gaps is consistent, since the architraves will hide it).

Fit the liner by fixing in the centre of the liner only, and then you will have the ability to tweak the gap to the door after it is hung, by driving wedges between the wall and the liner (to close up any larger than wanted gaps)

The whole process is described here:

The doors in question are wardrobe doors that are a match to the bathroom cabinet doors. I got a replacement kitchen door and wardrobe door supplier to make up the doors and liners. The doors are going to be inset within the liners with an opening of 800mm. I got the manufacturer to make up the doors based on how much smaller the doors and drawers of my kitchen units are compared to the cabinet sizes. The two doors that will inset within the liner are each 396mm wide giving 8mm over three gaps roughly 2+ mm each gap which should be enough to leave suitable adjustment of the concealed hinges.

I seem to recall back in the day most joiners added about 1/4” each side to the width of a standard liner between studs to allow for some packing to get things plumb. I have got one side of the opening in place and it is fairly plumb for most of its length just about a 1mm+ at the top owing to a twist I simply cannot get out. It is how far away to position the other stud and leave some space for packing out? The doors are in excess of 2m tall and will hang on four concealed hinges each, I really want to eliminate any potential wobble and at the moment I am thinking of allowing about 5mm each side.

Are these going to be hung on traditional hinges, or or wardrobe/kitchen cabinet style ones? The latter give far more scope for tweaking positions later.

The trick to getting nice looking gaps between lining and door with traditional hinges, is usually to tweak the frame position *after* the door has been hung - basically twisting the frame slightly to adjust the fit on the side you can see (on a "normal" door, the door stops hide the margin on the side of the frame the door closes onto).

But the traditional "penny" joint (about 2mm) was the usual amount they would aim for. (the penny in question being a big one with Britannia on it!)

Tricky Dicky snipped-for-privacy@sky.com wrote in news:v66crf$2q6d4$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Make sure you use a decent thickness of mdf to ensure a robust support for your concealed hinges and make sure to have packers close to those locations for support. For a proper door I would have suggested a natural wood lining as cutting in hinge and latch plates in mdf can be or look a bit messy.

For packers the ready made plastic ones are easy to use and come down to