Question about Blum Hinges

See Picture at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking 4 doors on bottom of cabinet, 2 on the outside are inset with a 1/16" reveal the 2 middle doors need to be overlay by 3/8 to 1/2" to cover the divider in order to support shelf. I have bored (35mm) holes 7/8 of an inch from edge and 4" from top and bottom. I'm using 107 degree snap on blum hinges but having a problem determining mounting plate. Any ideas?

Thanks, Rich

Reply to
Rich
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I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the edge. Is that what the instructions call for?

Reply to
Leon

The reason I ask this question is that these Euro style hinges typically have to be located a specific distance from the edge. Too far from the edge and you cannot open the door. Because there are almost countless variations and over lay options available with these style hinges it is going to be difficult to suggest how the hinge should be mounted other than what the instructions dictate. Typically you have the opportunity to mount anywhere you wan,t up and down, but location from the edge of the door is quite critical.

Reply to
Leon

It was my understanding that 7/8" was the standard cup locations except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope not or I will be building these doors over and that would just suck!!!!

Reply to
Rich

Thought that the mounting plate size or offset determined flush mount or inset and overlay position. It's been awhile since I have done cab doors so I could be wrong.

Reply to
Rich

I have probably drilled 3 or 4 hundred holes for these style hinges and in my particular case the distance from the edge was always 1/8" Typically the mechanics and or mounting plate of the hinge determine the amount of over lay. If you know the model number of that particular Blum hinge you should be able to find the particulars.

See if this helps but as it looks you may need to get different mounting plates to suite you over lay needs.

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Reply to
Leon

1/8" recess + (1 3/8" diameter [35 mm] cup /2) = 13/16" edge of door to center of cup. 7/8" to the center of the cup ain't that far off.
Reply to
Nova

Well, you "could" plug the present holes and drill new ones. If you cut plugs that fit well, glue them and sand them down, they shouldn't show with the white paint finish. But, I think the prescribed distance from the edge is more like 1/8" to maybe 3/8".

Max

Reply to
Max

Typically the measurement for these type hinges are from the edge of the door to the edge of the hole, not the center of the hole.

Reply to
Leon

I have not been following this thread closely, but the above got my attention.

If the interior surface is actually going to be painted, "plug" the existing holes with epoxy thickened wity micro-balloons.

Fill the hole about 1/6-1/8 proud, then allow to cure for a couple of days.

Sand flush, redrill 35mm holes and paint.

Do a decent paint job and you will never see the repair.

If this is a natural finish, all bets are off.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

The 7/8" I'm talking about is to center of the 35mm bore. Making it about 1/8" from the edge.

Reply to
Rich

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here's the deal, the 7/8" is to the center of the bore making it about an 1/8 from the edge. I hope this clears up the misunderstanding.

Reply to
Rich

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Glad someone finally realized what the hell I was saying or writing. Geeeez isnt 13/16 - 1/16 from being 7/8's These so called experts really think I bored a hole 7/8's from the edge? The side of the stile is 2-1/4 in total. How would I do that?

Reply to
Rich

Ok I made a mistake describing my bore for the hinge. I drilled the 35mm cup hole 7/8" from center to edge, leaving about an

1/8"from hole to edge. I'm not that stupid besides if the stile is 2-1/4" how would a 7/8" hole fit if it was from the edge? Anyway guess I'll figure this one on my own and I'm sure getting the right mounting plate starting from the 0 to the 9mm will solve my problem. Only one got it right and that was Nova!
Reply to
Rich

7/8" was a distance I got a long time ago but that was for face frame construction and it always worked for me. This is my first inset and small overlay job. I was told that it works for inset too. It's all about the mounting plate. All bets are off when dealing with angled cab doors though. Sorry for the misunderstanding and how I worded it.
Reply to
Rich

"Rich" wrote

Go figure ...could it possibly be because the not "so called expert" who requested help in the first place did a piss poor job of saying what he meant?

Naaaa ...

Reply to
Swingman

"Rich" wrote

Wrong ... The boring distance for a euro style hinge is ALWAYS measured from the edge of the cup to the edge of the door frame.

There are tables in every package for determining/changing the overlay/inset using this particular distance "B". Check the Blum site for a pdf for each type of hinge.

No one who does this more than once attempts to measure from the "center of the cup" ... to do so is sheer idiocy.

Reply to
Swingman

The cup hole are a lot easier to drill when you have the forstner bit's center marked. It's hard to line up the rim of the bit.

Ya'oughta try it! ;-)

Reply to
Nova

Always?

Blum gives a chart showing the center point distance as "Distance C" on page 10 of their literature at:

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Reply to
Nova

No sheet, anyways it all worked out I installed the doors today and all I needed was an assortment of 0 to 9mm spacer mounting brackets. My local hardwood supplier gave me the brackets so no big deal or loss. I think he was the one that told me 7/8" was the measurement in the first place. Next time I will pay more attention to the Blum PDF.

Reply to
Rich

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