Most stats will be programmable some some extent - allowing different at least the choice of a normal and a "set back" temperature to be invoked for different time slots. Some may allow different temps for each time slot.
TRVs can do some of what zoning achieves, but they can't usually select different heating times for different zones.
(for example I have an upstairs zone and a downstairs one (bedrooms and living space if you prefer). In the morning the bedrooms get heated before the downstairs, but the downstairs, will carry on being heated after the bedrooms are no longer heated).
If you are using the hive hub (that is the bit that makes the stat "internet connected" - and enables the "smart" facilities, then that is usually hard wired to the router. However it can be right next to it. It is not wired to anything else, and uses zigbee wireless protocols to talk to the hive stat (and the stat uses the same to talk to the receiver).
Note you don't need the hub at all if you don't want the smart capabilities (like being able to control the heating from your phone, or integrate with voice assistants to tell them to turn the heating up or down vocally. Without the hub it will just behave as a bog standard wireless stat.
Almost certainly not the best place for it. (Unless you spend all your time in there!)
(discussed elsewhere in this thread)
That looks like the version without the hub. So no smart integration, but also no internet connection required.
It can go anywhere you like - it does not need to be on show. It will have a mains connection, and a wire to the call for heat input on the boiler.
Yup it will let you set the times and room temps. Note that it will not control the boiler flow temp - this would still be manual. To control boiler flow temps automatically you need weather compensation.
For most users, setting a flow temp to "low ish" (where low ish will depend on the size of the rads, the level of insulation etc) will be adequate for most of the year. You may want to tweak it up a bit during very cold spells if you find the heating can't get the house up to temperature, or if it takes too long.
Sounds like you are on the right track.
Looking at page 31 in the boiler manual:
and page 10, "single channel wiring" in the receiver manual :
Remove the link wire between pins 1 and 2 on the boiler. Wire the Neutral pin on the boiler to the N pin on the stat. Wire pin 1 on the boiler to pin L on the stat Wire pin 2 on the boiler to pin 3 on the stat
The boiler is then supplying a live and neutral connection to the stat, and the stat is feeding back a switched live connection to the boilers call for heat.
If using conventional 3 core flex with the normal Brown, Blue, and Earth wiring colours, you can use the earth core for the switched live from the stat (pin 3, on the stat, pin 2 on the boiler), but you should over mark it with brown insulating tape at both ends to indicate it is repurposed as a (switched) live and is not an earth connection.