heavy Library shelving on metal stud wall?

[Veera]

Hi all, I am trying to put up a library shelving on my metal stud wall ( the wall is

4.2m x 2.5m ) and I am using metal uprights and bracket in every 60cm using zip-fix cavity wall fixings, (so I'm hoping to drill right through the metal studs), however I am just worried that this wall in general is not strong enough for the amount of weight I planning to put on it as I have full library. and I am not sure if metal studs are strong enough either. Should I drill right on the plasterboard or should I drill the metal studs? Also, I have bought all my parts and cannot return them now, so I was also thinking to use some oak dowels (38mm x 350mm) in between shelves right to the floor to put some of that weight on the floor. Can anyone suggest whether I need any extra support at all? Can I just put up the shelves on the brackets and will it be strong enough for the wall? Thank you all so much v

[Tricky Dicky]

If it were me I would try to fix my shelving uprights directly through to the metal studs using self tapping screws. The length of screws should be l ong enough to go through the fixture, plasterboard and at least 10mm into t he studding. Unless your shelves are extremely wide then most of the weight of your book shelves will be exerting a vertical shear force on the fixing s and the studs, I think you will find your studded wall is quite resilient .

For further information I would suggest you visit the British Gypsum site w here you will find comprehensive information on their products. The white b ook is very informative on using and installing their systems.

Richard

[tabbypurr]

You certainly need to fix to the studs not the plasterboard - though there's always one that will swear his shelf with 3 books on it is fine attached only to the weak plasterboard.

Whether your studs are strong enough on their own I don't know. If you know where they're from you could always test one.

NT

[newshound]

I have never seen library shelves where the basic weight was not supported entirely from the floor. You should certainly fix these to the wall if they have any significant height or if children might climb them.

If you mean twin slot type brackets then I think you are certainly right to think about transferring load *from the outside edge of the shelves* to the floor. What shelf material are you using? I ask because if it is solid timber, or to a lesser extent plywood it is not so difficult to provide support to the outer edge.

Is this a domestic or industrial environment? Domestic metal studs are pretty flimsy, I would have said they might not be as strong as traditional timber ones. And timber ones are normally fixed to the ceiling joists. I could envisage an amateur building a partition wall using metal studs and not worrying over-much about fixing them at the top.

[leenowell]

If the resulting shelves with the dowels you mention are free standing then most of the weight is going down the structure to the floor. It will still need attaching to the wall to stop it falling over eg if someone pulls it. If you needed to, you could put a sheet of plywood on the wall resting on the floor (either attached through the plasterboard to the studs or to min imise the amount it sticks out you could cut the plasterboard away at this point and replace with the ply). Then attach the shelves to the ply. This s hould help spread the load

[Veera]

replying to newshound, Veera wrote: Hi, thanks, it's a domestic place, just my flat, and you are right, I also the metal studs might a bit flimsy especially since it's one of those new built which many thing can go wrong in them. I don't know where they are from, I drilled into the wall and found that we had metal stud rather than timber ones. I am using light mdf for the shelves and was thinking to use oak dowels (38mm x

350mm) to put in between shelves all the way to the floor. in terms of fixing them to the shelves, I was thinking either little dowels, or just screwing them in one side and then put wood glue, may be a bit unprofessional though.

[Veera]

Thank you so much, I don't know where my studs are from though, but will def put the fixing through the studs. Thanks

[Veera]

Hi, thanks for your reply, I am thinking of drilling 13mm hole into the studs, and use cavity wall fixing, the ones with plastic straps. I have seen their webiste, will look again for more information, thanks again

[Tricky Dicky]

I think you are over thinking the problem by proposing cavity wall fixings through the metal studs. By the time you have drilled 13mm holes you will b e seriously weakening the stud not to mention the distinct possibility of d istorting the stud even if you started with a pilot hole and worked up in s tages to the final diameter. As I said before self tapping screws into the stud will give you a secure hold and will not pull out without considerable force.

In cases where you have no option but to fix to the plaster board then my f ixing of choice is the hollow wall anchor. I have used these to hold quite heavy radiators to walls where the bracket positions did not conveniently m atch the stud work. In our previous house I had to use them to hang kitchen cupboards which stored heavy China ware, they were still firmly on the wal l 5 years later when we sold the house. One thing to watch with studded wal ls in modern houses is the thickness of the plasterboard. Normal stud work is usually at 400mm centres but to save on material and work there is a ten dency to extend it to 600mm centres and compensate for the loss of rigidity by using thicker plasterboard, some fixings do not grip well beyond 12mm t hickness of plasterboard as we found out at my daughters new build.

Richard

[tabbypurr]

Perhaps it would do. When doing shelving units I make them heavier duty all round. At a minimum 15mm ply, OSB or wood - mdf is rather weaker. 2x2 uprights minimum, anything less is prone to bend.

NT

[Veera]

Thanks, I actually started with self tapping screws but watched few videos that thought maybe I am not putting the right fixing. Our studs are also 60cm apart. your comments were really helpful, thanks again

[Veera]

Yes, I am actually using twin slot brackets as my main means of support, I was only worried that it;s not enough and thought of introducing oak dowels on the outside edges of my shelves just to transfer some weight to the floor. It's a big wall, I am not sure I can apply another plywood sheet to it, I'm just to amateur to be honest. Thanks for your comments, big help

[Veera]

Thanks a lot, unfortunately I have already purchased my mdf, and painted it. wanted to go for plywood but I just didn't for some unknown reason :( hopefully they don't bend

[tabbypurr]

Sounds like your whole structure is going to be rather borderline.

NT