In the process of moving a stud partition wall over a couple of foot to enlarge a bathroom, and found a metal stud partiton frame using sections like this:
It's whats been used in commercail buildings for the last 10 years, its starting to be used for domestic now, as it is so quick and cheap to install. Once boarded it is as solid as the usual timber framing. Sound insulation, use insulation in the void and pink sound insulating plasterboards, just like commercial builds have been doing for years.
Only time I saw that used was in demountable office partitioning when it was clad with heavyweight plasterboard on both sides. Which is where the sound insulation comes from in any stud wall that isn't sand filled.
Imagine the sound insulating properties of 4x2 *unclad* wooden studwork.
So it has nothing to do with sound insulation and neither does studwork
It is a tad flimsy, but not by the time it has plasterboard applied, as that is the main strength of a normal stud wall , if you don't understand that look up 'stressed skin' construction.
For me it'd be maybe three times the materials cost of ordinary PB and wood frame if I was starting from scratch. But then my time is free . . .
This doesn't look solid at all. The sections are held together with one self tapping screw in each corner, and its rigidity appears to come from the plasterboard. Of course it doesn't need to be strong as such - it serves no structural purpose. Just feels flimsy, to the point when I was looking for bits of partition it didn't feel supported at anything like 60cm centres (it is/was).
Indeed - again, quite a cost hike for me. I'll probably put some rockwool in the cavity anyway.
The plasterboard on both sides of the wall will add the rigidity. In a bathroom you may want to use something different as a covering - some form of waterproof aqua-board for instance. Stagger the boards either side of the stud wall with the joints in different places. You can add insulation in the middle before installing the plasterboard sheets on the final side (or use insulated plasterboard.
Watch a few Youtube videos for fitting/building instructions.
Example wall with sound insulation
I've got some aquaboard for the bath side, and think I might stuff rockwool in there - I've got some spare. I did some reading up on Camden walls (suggested on the DIY wiki) - I'll look again at the principles, but this is only a bathroom, with no party walls, just a bedroom next door. Nice though to isolate certain, er, sounds though I suppose.
Interesting, thanks. Glued and screwed. Can't think it's *that* much quicker though . . .
Yes I'm convinced :-) I'll reuse it if I can.
if you watch 'Chateaux DIY' on C4 every day at 5PM you will see the intrepid Brits refurbing their new abodes and quite often this stuff is used, together with a special crimp tool that joins the verticals to the top and bottom rails without any additional fixings.
I cannot see any advantage of using the glue in that video
If screwing plasterboard or other board into metal studding use the correct type of screw - fine thread and not coarse thread
If joining metal to metal then self drilling screws work well, possible a bit easier with an impact driver. You do have to make sure that the two pieces of metal studwork to be joined cannot move when inserting a self drilling screw. The screw first drills a hole and then self taps. I used some small clamps on my ceiling frame work
Self drilling screws (longer lengths are available)
Plasterboard screw bit which helps stopping driving the screw too deep and breaking the plasterboard paper (possibly cheaper on ebay)
Exactly
Of course it doesn't need to be strong as such - it serves no
Makes f*ck all difference. what you need is sound insulation. Mass. Not thermal insulation Empty air....
All our new houses are done that way now. Works fine and never any problem with termites wood rot etc.
One of the Youtube videos I've link in one of my posts suggests 40cm centres if hanging something heavy, such as tiles.
I think they missed out the decimal point in the weight!
The Natural Philosopher snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid wrote in news:utcjar$v35p$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Perhaps that's why rockwool sold for acoustic insulation has twice the density of that sold for thermal.
Same here! I first encountered this in a friend's house in France - wondered what the hell the detector was doing. Tried to drill it, changed the bit to a new one, nothing happening. Probably a poor alloy with hard bits in it. I should have known, as I'd seen the stuff on the roof of the 'flat'*
*It was about 90 sq. m. /inside/ the 'shed', with enough shed space left for a good workshop, space to park several cars and a car port on the end for 3- 4 cars! Envious, moi?
At least. Sand is the very best. The only thing rockwool absorbs is very high frequencies - that's why we line loudpseakers with it. It does piss all to the bass. There sand earth and concrete work far better as does thick plasterboard. But by the time you have thick plasterboard, that's killed the HF anyway so the rockwool is superfluous.
Go to any recording studio and examine how its done. You want find rockwool
The Natural Philosopher snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid wrote in news:utgt0m$23sqi$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Whilst in acoustic anechoic chambers that is exactly what you will find, in the form of tapered wedges.
Current recommended solutions in real life domestic sound isolation situations compliant with building regs are dual wall partitions filled with acoustic rockwool, separated by an airgap.
No-one should feel the need to have tonnes of sand delivered to fill partitions in a domestic environment.
With tonnes of sand you may have a problem in a upstairs bathroom if there isn't a load bearing wall or a RSJ beneath the stud wall :) :)
That is not rockwool
The amount of LF transmissions is almost completely dominated by the wall mass. You want quiet? mass and an air gap to isolate structural vibration. and anything that is acoustically dampening to avoid panel resonance - like what they use in cars, heavy sticky rubber sheets
Anything that turns a sharp knock into a dull thud.
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