Hairline cracks in ceiling

May 22, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 8 Replies

Folks,



I live in a 1911 end terrace built on sandy soil so it moves a little as the water table rises and falls. As a result I get the odd minor crack in the ceilings, which are annoying, but I really don't want to re-do them, as I am pretty sure they will only recur.



I wonder if any one has tried the various paints available that claim to cover such imperfections, or do you have any other suggestions?



Dave


David Wade snipped-for-privacy@dave.invalid wrote in news:100mvjr$3btb1$1@dont- email.me:

If it's likely to continue to move then no 'paint' will make a lasting job. In a similar position I have used crack repair tape (search for that term) as a base layer for future painting and it has proved very effective in the long term (over 10yrs). Here's an example:

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I suggest you ignore popular suggestions to rake out a groove along the crack line and fill with caulk or a flexible filler, it will just open up in the long term.

Agreed. What does work is to place a generous amount of sand cement mixture above the ceiling which I assume is lath and plaster. If you can't easily lift floorboards to do this, then another approach would be to drill some holes along the crack line and inject a large amount of runny plaster of Paris or similar into each hole so that it flows over the immediate area before setting.

John

The full job if you want proper restoration of an ancient plaster ceiling in a listed property is as follows:

Push up and prop any areas of ceiling not properly attached Lift all the floorboards upstairs Hoover and blow out all the soot, dust, loose stuff Spray dilute PVA onto laths, plaster and joists in cavities Fix expanded metal lath mesh to joists close to old laths Pour in plaster of Paris to cover mesh Re fit floor, skirtings etc, remove props, decorate.

But in your case as in my old house it's probably best just to leave it, don't jump around upstairs and if anyone lifts boards for wiring or plumbing make sure they don't knock off the plaster that has squeezed between the laths because that's what holds the ceiling up.

Tim W

Plaster board jointing tape. Paper tape for joints likely to have movement, mesh tape for stable joints. The tape has to be embedded with a jointing compound and then over filled to because the tape is proud of the surface.

A good compromise filler is Gyproc Easifill 60 which is fairly easy to sand if necessary

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the 10kg bag is better value if you have a lot to do.

See these two videos on how to tape a crack and then hide the tape.

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Good grief. Isn't overboarding easier and as effective?

In message <100mvjr$3btb1$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, David Wade snipped-for-privacy@dave.invalid writes

There were some elastic ceiling paints in the 1970s advertised on TV . I can't recall what it was called It had a Uri Geller lookalike watching the ceiling bend without cracking, I used some in my old house and it seemed to work. Modern elastomeric paints are available. I might have to try some in my current house since recent strong winds are causing some cracks around the stairwell cupola ceiling work.

Brian

In a similar situation -- ceiling cracks that opened in winter, closed in summer, flexible acrylic sealant worked. Waited until the cracks were at maximum width, near enough, worked it in, smoothed it wit a wet sponge, and let the caulk dry. Paint enough area to hide the repair. That lasted...

Thomas Prufer

+1 for acrylic filler (decorators caulk) works better on wider cracks.

In fact it is superior to silicone except in one respect - waterproofing.

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