Glue gun

Probably just heat up a bit quicker.

No, it's the max flow rate. For doing stuff like sealing boxes up you want the 40W one.

Bill

Gluing big areas works better with a more powerful one, but much depends on what you are using it for as to whether that matters.

I use mine in the workshop for temporary fixing of patterns to timber, for tacking drawer fronts onto drawer boxes and other "alignment" jobs where you want instant "stick" with a little wiggle time for positional adjustment. Its also quite handy for sealing up gaps and fixing things to plastic, tacking wires in place etc.

Here's an idea then...

Tim

There's a huge difference in performance between Bosch & Hobbycraft glue gu ns - it's not me that's been using them so I can only report so much detail . The Bosch runs hotter, making the glue stick far better. Bosch doesn't dr ibble glue when sitting around. Bosch has a smaller nozzle giving neater mo re economic use of glue. The Bosch is simply a lot more capable. It wasn't cheap though.

NT

It will be the cheaper end I will buy, at least intiially. It will probably be like my multi tool, SDS+ and dremel, never needed one until I got them and now use them quite a lot.

e guns - it's not me that's been using them so I can only report so much de tail. The Bosch runs hotter, making the glue stick far better. Bosch doesn' t dribble glue when sitting around. Bosch has a smaller nozzle giving neate r more economic use of glue. The Bosch is simply a lot more capable. It was n't cheap though.

Used ones are/were very cheap.

NT

Does anyone suppose glue guns could be used to fix skirting boards? I'll have a load to do soon, and haven't yet found a way of fixing them that I was completely happy with. I'd love to be able to just glue them to the wall :-)

Probably expensive in glue? No More Nails type adhesive is the usual method. Fine if you have straight, flat walls with good surface, more difficult with dodgy paint on lath and plaster and wavy walls.

Well, the walls are wavy enough for me to have to find heavy things to hold it in place while the adhesive goes off. Having something go off quickly would help a lot.

Surprised TNP hasn't posted, he is/was a serious user.

They are good for some things, there is a bit of "technique" in making them work well and they are not IMHO a universal solution.

I was interested to see Mr Rumm's post, I'd not thought about the "tack welding for wood" type of use. I use mine mainly on things electrical, fitting bell or phone wire, sealing square conduit to surface mount boxes, additional strain relief, etc.

I guess if you can find a really quick way to dispense the many dollops required. I doubt it.

NT

Is there anything with more grip than No More Nails, then? I mean, I love NMN, but until it goes off, it's a bit weak.

I used expanding foam and a decent foam gun as a temporary fix - surprisingly sturdy in the event, and easy to get off if needed (slide a metal ruler behind the skirting).

I did think of that, but I imagined it being pushed away from the wall as the stuff continued to expand. Maybe with enough heavy things to hold it back?

Twice the area of I've-got-nomorenails gets you twice the grab. Perhaps with a fine notched spreader you could cover the whole thing!

NT

Then all the plaster cracks and falls off with the board! Brian

One problem I found when using hot glue to fix MDF patterns to wood prior to template routing (you just need a small blob here and there), was that when prising it free again, you would tear off a small layer of the mdf. The solution was to let some thin super glue soak into the MDF at the contact point first, then set it with a spray of CA activator. That leaves a nice glossy patch that its easier to separate the glue.

(another handy tip for chipping hot glue off wood surfaces etc, is to give a quick spray from a can of freezer spray - that makes it hard and brittle)

One of the key rules for fixing skirting to less than perfect walls, is do *not* try and make the skirting fit the wall - all you will achieve (apart from having lots of hassle getting it fixed) is to draw attention to the errors in the wall. Just fix to the high points, and then fill any gaps along the top after. Its easy for the eye to "see" a wave in what should be a nice straight skirting - much harder to see it in a large area of wall.

Re hot glue for skirting - you would probably find it difficult getting the flow rate to get enough of the stuff in place to truly fix it, however you might find that you can use small amounts of hot glue as a quick "clamp" to hold it in place while a more conventional "no nails" type of glue sets.