Float valve vibration

A couple of months ago we had a new boiler (regular) fitted. A couple of weeks later my wife said there was a strange noise coming from the spare bedroom en suite, which only occurred when I was using the basin in the bathroom. I assumed it was something to to with the HW/CH pump. The next time it happened I checked and was most surprised to find it was the mains cold water pipe which fed the instant-heat shower that was vibrating. I couldn't understand how the pump could be responsible, as it was nothing to do with cold water and at least 10m from the en-suite pipe. It wasn't, of course, and a bit of internet searching led me to the float valve on the cold water tank; that was indeed the cause.

So yesterday I removed and cleaned it, but it made no difference; when the tank filled and the float valve started to cut off the supply, the vibration started again. Today I replaced the old float valve with a new Pegler float valve. And the vibration is even worse - now we have a foghorn! One thing I noticed was that it was possible to cut down the sound by flexing the side of the plastic CW tank by pushing on the valve inlet. When I removed the old valve I noticed that the reinforcing metal plate was mounted horizontally, and that's the position I replaced it in. But it seems to me the tank would be stiffer with the plate mounted vertically, so that's what I'm trying. At the moment things seem to be better, but they may not last.

If the noise returns, I'll try partially closing the tank isolator valve first to see if that helps, as that's the easiest thing to do. If it doesn't, I'll try the "yoghurt pot" dampener on the float arm.

But if all those fail, I think the easiest thing is to fit a Torbeck valve instead of the standard float valve.

Reply to
Jeff Layman
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I our previous house we got this effect. it's caused by the valve closing too quickly. I was advisd to fix a plate to the float arm so that it slowed down the movement of the float. Worked perfectly.

Reply to
charles

What usually sets it off is the rubber disc getting harder. A new 50p disc normally fixes it. With a new inlet valve that likely won't solve it. Reducing flow rate can. Adding physical damping to the pipe sometimes helps. Adding a tee shape to trap a pocket of air above the pipe is an approach I gather can also work.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Reducing flow rate can.

Rsducing the flow to a degree that the rate is reduced as the valve is almost closed will cause you problems in filling the cistern fast enough at times of high demand.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

sometimes you don't need much flow reduction, sometimes you do. FWIW an inline valve has the least effect on flow when the cistern valve is closing, the most when it's full open.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Even toilet cistern can have weird oscillator issues. I was in a block of flats and used the toilet as the water was close to cut of it sounded a bit like a badly played penny whistle. Luckily not my concern, but I did wonder if the flat next door to the visitors toilet might be occupied by the deafest member of the community! Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

"Brian Gaff" snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in news:q04nct$b3s$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Some people tolerate stuff and do not recognise such noises as an opportunity to apply a fix.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Had this as well right PITA to cure. I think I ended up bracing the incoming, plastic and very poorly fixed, pipe into a position where it didn't resonate. Turning the isolator down really on affected when in the filling cycle the noise appeared and its frequency.

If you do make sure the over flow can cope with the much higher flow rate of a stuck open torbeck...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

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