False ceiling

[tabbypurr]

yup - definitely worth it if you're working on your own.

NT

[alan_m]

To stop the rigid plasterboard ceiling moving and cracking along the joins over time. Open/closing a door in a domestic room can cause an air pressure change and cause a suspended ceiling to move if not securely anchored. If ceiling tiles move they will just settle back in their frames as they are only held in place by gravity. If a plasterboard jointed ceiling moves it can crack along the joins.

On my metal ceiling frame where the metal support struts cross they can be fixed with spring clips which allow a small amount of movement BUT the manufacturer recommends for smaller domestic property rooms that the spring clips are replaced with screws to create a more rigid structure. My metal framework is screwed together with self drilling screws designed for the purpose. It took around 5 seconds each time two metal metal sections had to be joined.

[John Rumm]

(maybe cheaper on Ebay)

(read the reviews)

+1 for the dead man prop:

I managed to do all the ceilings on my loft conversion by myself using one of those, and 8x4 sheets of 12mm plasterboard.

(to be fair I could reach the ceiling from the floor which makes it easier)

[alan_m]

My false ceiling is still 8ft. I purchased the lift after previously only using two dead man props to overboard in a much smaller room. I still have a much larger room ceiling which I want to overboard so the investment in a lift makes sense (to me).

[Andrew]

Not if your entire new false ceiling IS the fireproof protection for the RSJ. You could trim a bit off the ends of the 3x2 sitting on the RSJ flange, equal to the depth of the flange. This would give a a level surface from wall to wall

========== flange 3x2 lengthwise -> | |! <- web

---------------------------! assumes 6 inch deep rsj 3x2 notched into RSJ ! /----!

---------------------- ==========

********************************************** -< Fireproof PB

something like this, if your reader is set to non-proportional spacing

You'd need fireproof hoods for any downlighters

[Andrew]

Just ask your other half to help support the 4*8 sheets with a kitchen broom. Immediately after a visit to the hairdresser is an ideal time to ask :-)

[Roland Perry]

In message <r88ph7$ht4$ [e-mail]>, at 09:29:27 on Tue, 28 Apr

2020, Andrew snipped-for-privacy@mybt>> In message <r86lnk$tkm$ [e-mail]>, at 14:12:20 on Mon, 27 Apr

That's going to be an awful lot of fireproof plasterboard (although not necessarily a bad thing). The original plan was just to box in the RSJ, I think. And have a "step" between the two halves, but that's going to look very odd.

Plasterboard is apparently the new toilet paper. Factories are closed and builders merchants run out.

It's 8" (see earlier comments)

<---- existing kitchen ----> <---- new extension ---->

############################ <old ceiling > ========== flange > 3x2 lengthwise -> | |! > | |! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% > ------------------------- ! %%%New 2x6 rafters%%%%%% > 3x2 notched into RSJ /--- ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% > --------------------- ========== >********************************************** -< Fireproof PB

Inevitably there's going to be a gap between the (already fitted) new rafters in the "extension" part of the project, and the new ceiling. But I suppose the builders could just tack some spacer timbers under them.

OK.

[Tim Lamb]

In message <WtfPkACWv$[e-mail]>, Roland Perry [e-mail]> writes

I have a couple of sheets put by:-)

Could you not clad the beam in enough Oak to meet the fire regs. and call it a *feature*?

[Roland Perry]

In message [e-mail]>, at 11:32:46 on Tue, 28 Apr 2020, Tim Lamb [e-mail]> remarked:

The objective is to have a flat ceiling, not one with a feature RSJ-cladding.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I have some 'feature RSJ-cladding' :-)

There is an RSJ with that massive beam slotted into it, over those doors...

[Andrew]

So, in your addition to my 'graphics' you could trim those 6x2 joists to drop their bottom edge level with the underside of the RSJ, unless the work is already done in which case just run your

3x2 at 90 degrees to the 6x2 and screw the cross joints. 2 layers of 12.5 PB is usually acceptable intead of 1 layer of 15 mm pink fireline to a BCO

[John Rumm]

I can probably still (just!) reach that from the ground :-)

Yup, lifts are nice - especially if you are doing it several times. Still worth having a prop or two even with the lift though, since sometimes it nice to hold a board in place and then be able to get the lift out of the way so you don't have to work round it.

[Roland Perry]

In message <r8960s$mpr$ [e-mail]>, at 13:02:37 on Tue, 28 Apr

2020, Andrew snipped-for-privacy@mybt>> In message [e-mail]>, at 11:32:46 on

They are very firmly completely above the lower flange.

Thanks.