Suspended / false ceiling - how to fit it?

Hi,
I have a room, with a gently (20 degree?) sloping ceiling,
following the roof line, in which I wish to fit LV ceiling lights. I'm
quite comfortable with the slope. I need advice on how to create a
ceiling to which to attach the lights.
The ceiling plaster seems to me to be the original, probably on
laths. There are some major cracks in the plaster but when I tap it
very few areas have a hollow sound. By pushing on areas of the plaster
it doesn't seem the plaster has come away from the laths.
So, should I make a frame attached to the walls and with 2 by 1
timbers on to which to nail the plaster board, leaving the original
ceiling in place and creating the void for insulation and the light
fittings? Or should I take the current ceiling down, exposing the
laths, then nail 2 by 1 (or whatever) to the exposed roof beams then
nail the plaster board to that? My thinking about taking the current
ceiling down is although it seems sound it may "detach" from the laths
in future (even though if it is original it has been in place for 100
years !).
Thanks
Clive
Reply to
Clive
As a general rule, unless there is something truly wonderful about the original structure, I go back to a well tried principle:-
'When in doubt, rip it out'
That way you have a simple job of reinstallation using 'known quality' materials to whatever standards you (or the BCO) insist upon.
'Bodge over bollocks' always ends in a lot of work and an indeterminate result.
Reply to
The Natural Philosopher
Thanks people.
It's coming down (when I have someone lined up to skim the plaster boards).
Lovely jubbly.
Clive
Reply to
Clive
Just one comment to your original message:
SCREW the plasterboard, don't NAIL. Much better.
Reply to
JoeJoe
Well YES. if you are slightly more intelligent than a gibbon.
My plasterboarders were not, and they managed top break the cardboard so I have floppy boards and popping screw heads..
Reply to
The Natural Philosopher
Take it down - why ? It will create a serious mess and I mean serious - and you will also have to get rid of the muck. If you are putting up 2 x 2 battens for the 'screwed on' plasterboard, they will hold the original plasterwork in place perfectly well - just user longer screws into the ceiling joists. Taking off the plaster is an unnecessary operation.
And because it all screwed, there won't be any shocks to disturb the old plaster. If it does detach later, it's only going to fall in small bits an inch or so and will happily sit on the plasterboard. Ive done one ceiling myself that way and two that were done by a builder, and there's a bedroom one to do and SWMBO will certainly not tolerate any further mess after all these years.
Rob
Reply to
robgraham
Agreed - I've done a very similar project in my own bathroom without ill effect.
The *only* possible justification for ripping it down would be to add insulation as has been suggested and having done it both ways in my house I'm not convinced the massive extra aggro would be worthwhile. Bear in mind that if the old ceiling is left, the new room will be better insulated than before due to the extra layer of ceiling and air trapped between the two layers.
David
Reply to
Lobster
What about if there are rotten timbers behind it?
Or potential roof problems?
Or mice?
Or just about anything that could happen after a 100 years!
The WHOLE POINT of taking it all down is that you reduce the uncertainties to zero.
And you can do the job properly to a standard and bring it up to scratch.
Sure you can cover it in woodchip and sell the house and hope it stays up a few years.
Cowboy bodging is common enough...
HOWEVER you may find that you don't know where the tinmbers are, and trying to whack up more board ends up with it falling down, and then you wish you had done it properly to start with.
Sure. But not nearly as good as a few inches of celotex whacked up..
Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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