False ceiling

I've got an 8ft wide room that I wish to fit with a false ceiling.

2x3" battens (maybe an overkill, but they are easy to source) then plasterboard.

How far apart should they be spaced?

The existing joists, which I won't be relying upon at all, are 15" apart.

Reply to
Roland Perry
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Mr Google has loads of info from Building Regs, here's an example picked at random:

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- suggests 400 centres, and that 2x3 is maybe slightly on the skimpy side for 8ft.

Reply to
nothanks

surely the regs are based upon the assumption that the top surface of the roof will be walked upon (either routinely or for maintenance)

this isn't the case here

tim

Reply to
tim...

+1

Also with the existing ceiling a joists in place he has ample points for intermediate fixings to shorten the spans. I have seen plenty of false ceilings installed that way with 2x2 frameworks.

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

Since this just needs to hold the plasterboard up, and won't ake any additional load from maintenance access etc, then 24" centres ought to be ok. (stick to a spacing that matches your plasterboard obviously, so that a joist will fall on an edge of all the plasterboards)

Reply to
John Rumm

1.5 x 2.5 CLS would be more than enough. 16" is traditional, you can go wider to 2' if you want. The bigger you go the more likely cracks are to appear over time in the pb.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

In message snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk>, at

12:51:46 >

Good point. I hadn't thought of that!

Reply to
Roland Perry

Id use 2x4. 2x3 will sag a bit. even under their own weight over an8 ft span.

But if you don't mind bow, roofing lath is strong enough!

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

walking on it occasionally and get some temporary bow is not the same as having it permanently bowed by a grand piano in the room upstairs: loft joists are typically far lighter than first floor joists. evemn if they are usually trussed

Yes if hangers from the existing ceiling are employed, frankly a a few matchsticks is all you need. You should see what crap is used in most false ceilinged offices.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Maybe use those metal C sections used to construct the partition walls of modern houses instead of 3x2 timber, which might turn banana shaped if not screwed to a flat surface along their length.

Ie a horizontal wall. Might need some support in the middle to stop sagging, but false ceilings in offices have been done like this for ages.

He hasn't told us what the gap is above this false ceiling. does it need a smoke detector ?.

Reply to
Andrew

In message <r83v8i$fpe$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, at 13:36:34 on Sun, 26 Apr

2020, The Natural Philos>>

This is a ground floor ceiling.

Using tiles though, not plasterboard.

Reply to
Roland Perry

In message <r83vfp$19hk$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org>, at 13:40:25 on Sun, 26 Apr

2020, Andrew snipped-for-privacy@mybtinternet.com remarked:

Eight inches. It's to disguise an RSJ, which I'm told will be itself be cased in fireproof board at some stage.

Reply to
Roland Perry

similar weight tho

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Ok well the consensus veers towards using hangers off the existing ceiling joists and whatever you like that you can screw the board to

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Plasterboard is heavier.

Having just put up a false plasterboard ceiling (using a metal frame)

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Note all demos have square rooms - my ceiling didn't have one right angled corner, nor was the original ceiling horizontal. Perfectly horizontal on one wall but a 3 cm drop over the length of the room on the opposite wall.

Consider the size of board. I used 1.2 x 2.4m (12mm thick) but if doing the same again I would consider using smaller size board. I used a (£120) plasterboard lift obtained on Ebay. These lifts are fairly basic but work well but it helps if the plaster board is balanced on the lift. I had to fit 1/3 sheets in some places which can unbalance the lift. I used some bricks in a strong carrier bag on the lift arm on opposite side to the board to balance.

If moving plasterboard around I found this type of carrier carrier ideal (a fairly easy one man lift of 1.2 x 2.4m board)

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(maybe cheaper on Ebay)

When driving screws into plasterboard I would recommend this type of screwdriver bit which can really help by not driving the screw in too deep

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the reviews)

Reply to
alan_m

Well you could rest one end of the 3x2's on the flange of the RSJ, and hammer/wedge a strip of timber on top of the 3x2's lengthwise along the RSJ such that the wedge is a tight fit into the gap between the top of the 3x2 and the upper flange of the rsj, ...

leaving you to support the other end,..

However, BCO might raise objections to this approach.

Reply to
Andrew

In message <r86lnk$tkm$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org>, at 14:12:20 on Mon, 27 Apr

2020, Andrew snipped-for-privacy@mybt>> In message <r83vfp$19hk$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org>, at 13:40:25 on Sun, 26 Apr

But that would leave a surface significantly higher than the lower edge of the fireproof board I'm told is supposed to be applied around the RSJ.

Why are we trying to stop the false ceiling floating upwards?

That would be on simple galvanised-iron hangers screwed to the brick wall.

Perhaps they'd worry about supporting one end of my new timbers on the RSJ compromising the fire proofing. Although I note that the ceiling beams on the extension side of the RSJ (fitted by builders who have been socially absent rather than merely distant, for over a month now) are supported on the lower flange that side.

Reply to
Roland Perry

Smaller boards than 4x8 are so much easier. Rather than paying £££ for a board lift you can just use a strip of 1/2 x 2 as a dead man. It bends enough to easily slide it into place & remove tension when needed. Put a little crosspiece on top & it won't dent the boards.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

but price per unit area at least 50% higher, and you've got a longer run of joints to tape and fill.

Reply to
Andy Burns

In message snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net>, at 18:10:51 on Mon, 27 Apr 2020, Andy Burns snipped-for-privacy@andyburns.uk remarked:

And in the long term, fewer cracks and joints to paper over, with bigger sheets.

Reply to
Roland Perry

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