Also with the existing ceiling a joists in place he has ample points for intermediate fixings to shorten the spans. I have seen plenty of false ceilings installed that way with 2x2 frameworks.
Since this just needs to hold the plasterboard up, and won't ake any additional load from maintenance access etc, then 24" centres ought to be ok. (stick to a spacing that matches your plasterboard obviously, so that a joist will fall on an edge of all the plasterboards)
1.5 x 2.5 CLS would be more than enough. 16" is traditional, you can go wider to 2' if you want. The bigger you go the more likely cracks are to appear over time in the pb.
walking on it occasionally and get some temporary bow is not the same as having it permanently bowed by a grand piano in the room upstairs: loft joists are typically far lighter than first floor joists. evemn if they are usually trussed
Yes if hangers from the existing ceiling are employed, frankly a a few matchsticks is all you need. You should see what crap is used in most false ceilinged offices.
Maybe use those metal C sections used to construct the partition walls of modern houses instead of 3x2 timber, which might turn banana shaped if not screwed to a flat surface along their length.
Ie a horizontal wall. Might need some support in the middle to stop sagging, but false ceilings in offices have been done like this for ages.
He hasn't told us what the gap is above this false ceiling. does it need a smoke detector ?.
Having just put up a false plasterboard ceiling (using a metal frame)
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Note all demos have square rooms - my ceiling didn't have one right angled corner, nor was the original ceiling horizontal. Perfectly horizontal on one wall but a 3 cm drop over the length of the room on the opposite wall.
Consider the size of board. I used 1.2 x 2.4m (12mm thick) but if doing the same again I would consider using smaller size board. I used a (£120) plasterboard lift obtained on Ebay. These lifts are fairly basic but work well but it helps if the plaster board is balanced on the lift. I had to fit 1/3 sheets in some places which can unbalance the lift. I used some bricks in a strong carrier bag on the lift arm on opposite side to the board to balance.
If moving plasterboard around I found this type of carrier carrier ideal (a fairly easy one man lift of 1.2 x 2.4m board)
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(maybe cheaper on Ebay)
When driving screws into plasterboard I would recommend this type of screwdriver bit which can really help by not driving the screw in too deep
Well you could rest one end of the 3x2's on the flange of the RSJ, and hammer/wedge a strip of timber on top of the 3x2's lengthwise along the RSJ such that the wedge is a tight fit into the gap between the top of the 3x2 and the upper flange of the rsj, ...
leaving you to support the other end,..
However, BCO might raise objections to this approach.
In message <r86lnk$tkm$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org>, at 14:12:20 on Mon, 27 Apr
2020, Andrew snipped-for-privacy@mybt>> In message <r83vfp$19hk$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org>, at 13:40:25 on Sun, 26 Apr
But that would leave a surface significantly higher than the lower edge of the fireproof board I'm told is supposed to be applied around the RSJ.
Why are we trying to stop the false ceiling floating upwards?
That would be on simple galvanised-iron hangers screwed to the brick wall.
Perhaps they'd worry about supporting one end of my new timbers on the RSJ compromising the fire proofing. Although I note that the ceiling beams on the extension side of the RSJ (fitted by builders who have been socially absent rather than merely distant, for over a month now) are supported on the lower flange that side.
Smaller boards than 4x8 are so much easier. Rather than paying £££ for a board lift you can just use a strip of 1/2 x 2 as a dead man. It bends enough to easily slide it into place & remove tension when needed. Put a little crosspiece on top & it won't dent the boards.
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