False ceiling

Mr Google has loads of info from Building Regs, here's an example picked at random:

surely the regs are based upon the assumption that the top surface of the roof will be walked upon (either routinely or for maintenance)

this isn't the case here

tim

Also with the existing ceiling a joists in place he has ample points for intermediate fixings to shorten the spans. I have seen plenty of false ceilings installed that way with 2x2 frameworks.

Richard

Since this just needs to hold the plasterboard up, and won't ake any additional load from maintenance access etc, then 24" centres ought to be ok. (stick to a spacing that matches your plasterboard obviously, so that a joist will fall on an edge of all the plasterboards)

NT

In message snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk>, at

Good point. I hadn't thought of that!

Id use 2x4. 2x3 will sag a bit. even under their own weight over an8 ft span.

But if you don't mind bow, roofing lath is strong enough!

walking on it occasionally and get some temporary bow is not the same as having it permanently bowed by a grand piano in the room upstairs: loft joists are typically far lighter than first floor joists. evemn if they are usually trussed

Yes if hangers from the existing ceiling are employed, frankly a a few matchsticks is all you need. You should see what crap is used in most false ceilinged offices.

Maybe use those metal C sections used to construct the partition walls of modern houses instead of 3x2 timber, which might turn banana shaped if not screwed to a flat surface along their length.

Ie a horizontal wall. Might need some support in the middle to stop sagging, but false ceilings in offices have been done like this for ages.

He hasn't told us what the gap is above this false ceiling. does it need a smoke detector ?.

In message <r83v8i$fpe$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, at 13:36:34 on Sun, 26 Apr

This is a ground floor ceiling.

Using tiles though, not plasterboard.

In message <r83vfp$19hk$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org>, at 13:40:25 on Sun, 26 Apr

Eight inches. It's to disguise an RSJ, which I'm told will be itself be cased in fireproof board at some stage.

similar weight tho

Ok well the consensus veers towards using hangers off the existing ceiling joists and whatever you like that you can screw the board to

Plasterboard is heavier.

Having just put up a false plasterboard ceiling (using a metal frame)

Consider the size of board. I used 1.2 x 2.4m (12mm thick) but if doing the same again I would consider using smaller size board. I used a (£120) plasterboard lift obtained on Ebay. These lifts are fairly basic but work well but it helps if the plaster board is balanced on the lift. I had to fit 1/3 sheets in some places which can unbalance the lift. I used some bricks in a strong carrier bag on the lift arm on opposite side to the board to balance.

If moving plasterboard around I found this type of carrier carrier ideal (a fairly easy one man lift of 1.2 x 2.4m board)

When driving screws into plasterboard I would recommend this type of screwdriver bit which can really help by not driving the screw in too deep

Well you could rest one end of the 3x2's on the flange of the RSJ, and hammer/wedge a strip of timber on top of the 3x2's lengthwise along the RSJ such that the wedge is a tight fit into the gap between the top of the 3x2 and the upper flange of the rsj, ...

leaving you to support the other end,..

However, BCO might raise objections to this approach.

In message <r86lnk$tkm$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org>, at 14:12:20 on Mon, 27 Apr

But that would leave a surface significantly higher than the lower edge of the fireproof board I'm told is supposed to be applied around the RSJ.

Why are we trying to stop the false ceiling floating upwards?

That would be on simple galvanised-iron hangers screwed to the brick wall.

Perhaps they'd worry about supporting one end of my new timbers on the RSJ compromising the fire proofing. Although I note that the ceiling beams on the extension side of the RSJ (fitted by builders who have been socially absent rather than merely distant, for over a month now) are supported on the lower flange that side.

Smaller boards than 4x8 are so much easier. Rather than paying £££ for a board lift you can just use a strip of 1/2 x 2 as a dead man. It bends enough to easily slide it into place & remove tension when needed. Put a little crosspiece on top & it won't dent the boards.

NT

but price per unit area at least 50% higher, and you've got a longer run of joints to tape and fill.

In message snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net>, at 18:10:51 on Mon, 27 Apr 2020, Andy Burns snipped-for-privacy@andyburns.uk remarked:

And in the long term, fewer cracks and joints to paper over, with bigger sheets.