Experienced !!!

Interesting... but irrelevant!

Bill

I normally do a short reverse of the drill, but sometimes the dust can jam the bit in the hole and you need to decompact it to get the drill out, its not going to affect the hole much unless you are very clumsy.

On floodlights. I despair on makers of such things not adding a few more pence to the cost and providing shutters, ie movable little deflectors to stop the light polluting other peoples space and causing light pollution to our undark skies.

Brian

In message <rqpvnp$ciu$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, "Brian Gaff (Sofa)" snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk> writes

I think there is a marketing opportunity for clip on deflectors. Perhaps a series of horizontal angled strips.

My fitting experience has been that the positioning of the sensor prevents the lamp being tilted much below 30 deg. to horizontal when attached to a wall. The reflector angle something like 60 deg. so some of the light is going out horizontally:-)

When drilling masonry, I remove the drill several times. To clear the debris.

Aren't most adjustable? Although did find one make where the PIR stopped it being tilted down sufficiently.

Most if pro fitted will be done in daylight. So the fitter has no idea where the light actually goes.

In the past I've used an old fashioned plug in vaccuum cleaner for this. This would also probably be an ideal use for a battery powered hand held vac as featured recently - or even a Dyson costing up to £300.

michael adams

...

That means a side road; ROAD CLOSED AHEAD means the road straight on, or it should do, but...

Tim Lamb snipped-for-privacy@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> wrote in news:XHFyfB$ snipped-for-privacy@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk:

Why do many farms resemble scrap-yards. Why don;t they cash it in?

In message <XnsAC8EEF1CA8601JohPnowherecom@81.171.92.222>, JohnP snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.com writes

Ample space:-)

Actually I have just sent off a second 25 cu.m skip. £100 haulage charge and slightly over £100/ton paid for shearings. Steel scrap yards are renowned for shady dealing:-(

"Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)" snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in news:rqpvnp$ciu$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Surely reversing the drill causes the helix to sent any debris back down to the bottom of the hole. I don't have a reverse facility and have never missed it.

"Dave Plowman (News)" snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk:

Hardly difficult to predict. I think the sensor should be alongside the lamp rather than below it.

It is extremely difficult to predict where a light source is going to land. In a TV studio, where you don't want a light spilling onto somewhere not wanted, you'd normally wave something in front of it to see exactly were the light stops.

It should really be separate as what it needs to sense is not necessarily within the lit area. But most of the ones I've seen are above or below the light.

That seems a bit like saying you don't know where to point a camera until you look down the viewfinder.

Do you really think you can frame a shot accurately without seeing the picture? If so you're a deal more skilled than the hundreds of pro cameramen I've worked with.

But it does sound like you're like so many else. Just stick up a floodlight any old way and don't give a stuff if it annoys neighbours.

"Dave Plowman (News)" snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk:

My light cuts off halfway up the fence at the top of my garden.

I was not implying framing accurately - but with a floodlight the error that one sees is often in the obvious zone of at least 30 degrees of error. (Incidentally I was quite good at deciding what flocal length of lens I needed to frama shot as I know the angle of view of my various lenses.) A decent rule of thumb is that if you are outside the area but can see the halogen tube - or the LED panel then is is set too high.

And you did that without seeing the actual light output?

Many electricians installing an ouside floodlight don't set it at all. Just check it is working. Not really surprising given they're unlikely to be familiar with what the customer needs it to illuminate.

It's easier than it sounds, even in daylight. Go to the place where you want to upper illumination boundary. Look directly at the light through a pair of welding goggles, a sheet of welding glass, or a strong photographic neutral density filter, and get someone to tilt it up and down. When you can see it, it's set too high.

Incidentally the vertical beamwidth of an LED flood can be reduced by black tape or paint on the glass.

Bill

Isn't it easier just to do it in the dark? For those who don't possess welding goggles. etc? But perhaps they're standard equipment an electrician has in his van. Adam?

Another approach, is with a small mirror, or something chromed and shiny. Set it on the ground where you want the light pool to end, then and adjust the fitting angle until you are just on the custom of no longer being able to see the direct reflection of the lamp.