Easiest way to surface mount cables on hard wall

You normally clip to the mortar joins not to the brick. However some mortar joints will not take clips. The vertical ones might even if the horizontal ones do not. No idea why.

PVC conduit with metal saddles is the easiest option and looks OK in a garage.

Reply to
ARW
Loading thread data ...

If the welder always uses the same socket would that not be better in it's own supply/radial - maybe with a C or D type MCB?

Reply to
ARW

Chris Green explained on 26/10/2021 :

Foes it have a need to be? Your T&E's in the house are running along the timber joints and under the wood floors.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield, Esq.

ISTR Richard had posted some photos before and I complimented him on the neat install.

Well if I didn't I am now.

Even used a gasket on the conduit box lids.

I am going to knock 3% off for effort for not aligning the screw heads slots on the conduit box lid horizontally or vertically unless this is a new trendy version where all screw heads aim NE to SW and align with each other. In which case I'll add 10%.

Reply to
ARW

Conduit is your best bet IMHO (pvc or metal) not only will it comply and protect the cable mechanically but it will look loads better tha clipped direct.

Reply to
Jack Harry Teesdale

The conduit box screws appear to line up with the socket box.

Bit of a gap on the trunking lid though :)

Owain

Reply to
Owain Lastname

No - I think a black gasket.

Reply to
ARW

Sorry the trunking lid.

Well that is there for easy removal should it be needed.

Reply to
ARW

Fault tolerance is a bug not a feature IMHO. If you lose a connection you've now silently broken your ring and have two disconnected radials. But your ring is wired for a 32A load and a single 2.5mm2 T&E cable run is not rated for that.

If it's a radial, everything downstream of the break stops working - easy to notice and find the problem. At no point is it overloaded.

I agree a ring makes sense if you have loads that actually need the full 32A (and both sides of the 2.5mm2 cable run). Although for that I'd be tempted to wire the radial in 4mm2.

Theo (IANA electrician)

Reply to
Theo

Is that a requirement for wall fixing? I thought that it only applied where they could fall and entangle firefighters, i.e. ceilings and across the tops of doorways.

Reply to
Steve Walker

I used them for a while. Really didn't like them.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

One jail I was in had surface mounted steel conduit and they had plastered concrete behind it so you couldn't thread anything through. Ridiculous really.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

You absolutely must use an SDS drill. Then you will laugh in the face of hard bricks.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

No. It will fail.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

Surely all cable clips have masonry nails! Not much use otherwise!

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

It's because of the bricklaying process. If you are having trouble getting a nail into a mortar joint, reduce the force of each hit and increase the frequency of the hits. Tap tap tap tap. It works.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

Definitely.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

And if the broken connection is the CPC?

Or you have a high resistance (rather than broken) L or N connection?

Yup might be appropriate depending on layout...

Sounds like the OP's dad wants to run a welder from a socket. (although I would usually run a dedicated radial for that)

Reply to
John Rumm

One would hope, but i have met too many made from some kind of metal looking cheese! (and there is masonry and masonry - something that will hack being tapped into a mortar joint, may not cope with a blue engineering brick).

Reply to
John Rumm

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.