Disc Brakes

copper versus steel, I doubt it.

Old vehicles can and did run out of brakes on long descents. And the gravel pits for out of control trucks, I've not seen one since the 80s. Teaching people to rely entirely on the brakes, well I wouldn't.

NT

I'd like to know what kind can survive those kind of temps. Car accessory shop high temp epoxy is hopeless even at 70C.

NT

I've run out of brakes on a rather pad-worn Opel Manta braking from ahem

Most cars will do one emergency stop from their top speed. It takes something like a Porsche to do unlimited stops without time to cool the brakes.

A friend, doing somewhat more than the legal limit on the M1 found some cones coming up rather quickly, so he changed down a gear. That caused engine breaking.

Blue Bank on the A169 Pickering-Whitby road has one

Steeper 1:3 hills (Rosedale Chimney near Rosedale Abbey) and the two either side of Littlebeck (just off Blue Bank) tend not to have them, but maybe that's because lorries don't tend to use them.

I remember a for-schools physics programme on TV about energy, and they mounted a camera under a car (a Mark I "dogbone" Ford Escort IIRC) and repeatedly took it up to 70 and braked hard a few times (on a racetrack). And by the end the discs were glowing bright cherry red. Mind you, that may have been in the days of asbestos in brake pads :-(

Well no it isn't.

You have to know how to use epoxy.

2/. It requires absolutely 100% mixing, which is hard to do at room temperature

Average epoxies will do 100C no problem if used as above. Getting to

There are literally thousands of 'epoxy' formulations with widely varying characteristics available in the professional and industrial arena.

Well indeed. That's why you use brakes instead, brakes don't break under braking.

Perhaps it is a County thing, Dorset still has them in places such as entering Chideock traveling eastwards.

Sign for it

Graveled area,

I have seen wheel marks in it , in more recent times I suspect they were from the equipment such as a JCB that tidys the gravel and build some of it up into ridges .

G.Harman

the garage I use now at full price failed me for indicators bulbs not coloured enough so the replaced the bulbs and then passed it at no extra charge...now there is a garage you can trust .....

who needs disc brakes anyway...the drum brakes on my '63 mini 850 and '66 mustang coupe were just fine ...tee hee

Mine tends to pass the car on the assumption that the lights are working, and then replaces any bulbs to make that happen - so as not to record a fail and then a pass-after-rectification.

I usually check bulbs before taking the car to be tested, because I once had a garage fail me and then charge a retest fee. I presume a garage makes a bit of money on that, so it's good to find a garage which doesn't take advantage. It's in their best interest because I never went back to the garage that ripped me off so they lost all my future MOT and service custom.

I'm trying to remember the last time any of my cars failed an MOT (apart from the technicality of a duff bulb from the rip-off garage) because all other garages have not recorded a fail and then a pass even for things like brake pads they've had to replace or headlamp alignment that needed adjusting. When you find a garage that plays fair, you keep going back to them.

Discs get scored by road grit, etc. Doesn't effect their performance.

Either you increase the engine speed as you change down thus wasting petrol or you let the clutch speed up the engine wearing it more than needed. And not all cars cut off the fuelling totally on the over-run.

Those who claim vast brake life must drive very slowly on quiet flat roads.

You don't need that strong a glue with a pad, as the shape keeps it in place. The very earliest discs - Dunlop - had no steel backing at all. Purely a cylinder of friction material.

For cars that don't cut off the fuel totally on overrun (I thought all cars with fuel injection did cut off) is the amount of fuel used dependent on overrun revs? In other words, will they use more fuel in a lower gear (changing down to give engine braking) than a higher gear (staying in top until you're ready to set off). And is it more or less efficient to brake in gear or to press the clutch?

My car uses *some* fuel (instantaneous mpg shows as about 250) if I press the clutch and let the engine idle, but uses *no* fuel (mpg shows as 999) if I stay in gear and let the car slow down on overrrun.

I wonder how much fuel is used in accelerating the engine to match a lower gear before going down a long hill? Is it a measureable amount?

Maybe they can drive?

You don't use your brakes much on a motorway.

I used the Council (outsourced now) MOT testing station for our motor home and they were always pretty good.

Hard to find their details unless you now about them, though.

Cheers

Dave R