If the valve is in the loft near the high point of the system you may get away with partially draining a small amount of water. This may save you extra hassle if when refilling you get air locks etc.
far more wise to leave your heating on permanently, and control it from thermostat in your preferred room. no point in allowing a house to heat up and cool down, then heat up again.
There are effectively stats in every room?
Nope. It's a free moving now as it was then (you can move it easily with your fingers).
Given how simple it is, the only technical bit I wouldn't be sure about trying to find a generic replacement for is the main return spring, as that has to be balanced by the holding circuit when in the mid point.
The rest, two micro switches, two resistors and a diode are pretty stock, and the other mechanicals in the head, pretty simple.
It's because of the potential of it being a tired spring *and* the need to replace the two micro switches that it makes the new head worthwhile.
I intend in repairing the old head, putting it on the old valve and wiring it up to a double C/O light switch and seeing it work on the bench. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
In this case it's right in front of the cylinder in the airing cupboard, alongside the timer, pump and immersion switch so it all couldn't be easier. ;-)
I'm not sure how I would be able to tell if I had just drained down as far as the diverter valve, even though that is probably above the tops of the upstairs rads so might save having to bleed them etc?
Cheers, T i m
Its a rubbish system. Even one with a room stat is pretty well rubbish.
For room stats to work there has to be a pump running and the boiler running. If neither is true you won't get any heat even if its icing in the rooms.
If you set the pump and boiler to run all the time you are wasting gas and electricity and wearing out the system when there is no need for heat.
At least with a room stat there is a bit of control as neither will be on if the room with the stat is warm saving a fortune compared to the cost of fitting it.
I think proper controls should be mandated, ie. zones with stats and timers.
<shrug>
Ok ...
True.
It is true.
Possibly but surely isn't that the owners choice? FWIW, 'the system' is probably over 30 years old (maybe 40) and I don't believe has much in the way of attention, servicing or repair?
My mates Valliant system is new by comparison and is about to have a new gas valve and main PCB because of an F62 error.
Mums CH / HW system doesn't even have rad stat valves or a room stat and the boiler was bought second hand probably 40 years ago and again, hasn't 'cost' anything with engineer service visits in that entire time.
And if that room is 'warm enough' none of the other rooms get any heat. Crazy.
I think every room needs to be on a different zone with it's own stat and valve whilst possible and wouldn't cost that much more to do at installation, isn't something I understand is generally done, even in
2019.If we can have the inside of a car at two different temperatures on either side then a complete room should be very easy.
Cheers, T i m
no, TRVs are not equivalent to room stats. We must have been over and over that on here.
Room stats are Mandated, for good reason. But it's t i m.
NT
And the more hot air they generate the more they collect in subsidies. (DUP and NI Woodchip boilers).
Mine was installed about 38 years ago an I fitted timer stats and zone valves so it isn't new technology.
Most of it is still there working although I have had a new boiler and a mains pressure cylinder fitted when the solar thermal panels were installed.
It may not have cost anything in repairs but its probably cost double to run the system. Its like old PCs, they are cheap but use so much power its cheaper to buy a new one if you are keeping it for two years.
Its very easy, it was in 1980.
The easy way to retrofit it is with smart rad valves but they are charging silly prices ATM.
Need the Chinese to start doing them for £5.
You might have been but I haven't.
Ignoring the binary / analogue action, what is the (functional / thermal control) differences between a thermostatic rad valve and a room stat / room? And we are only talking about the ability to manage the temperature in the room, nothing else / irreverent thanks.
This should be funny ...
Cheers, T i m
On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 13:40:58 +0100, "dennis@home" snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid wrote: <snip>
Never said it was, I said it's the owners choice.
Ok.
So, how much gas do you think you can get for say the cost of a gas valve, a main PCB and the engineers time? Even if we go for just that one example.
See above.
<snip>Quite.
Ok.
No, once we are out of the EU we can become a manufacturing superpower again ... and charge what we like (/ need too give everyone £10 hour min) and people will be happy to pay whatever we ask ... <rolls eyes>
Cheers, T i m
It seems to me an old CH system that requires at least one radiator without a TRV is not particularly funny - unlike, say, a know-it-all who has never heard of such systems (albeit the latter may of course really be an occasion for regret, especially if it arises from a traumatic brain injury caused by DIY).
TRVs are noisy when not fully open and don't regulate the temperature properly.
Perhaps you've never heard of the latest invention - a thermostat? ;-)
A TVR can only change the upper temp of the room. It can't make the boiler fire if the room gets too cold like a thermostat can. Unless its installed in a cr@p system that is always circulating hot water.
If you say so.
As they have a ten year guarantee there probably isn't any cost in fixing it.
Mine ain't.
Depends.
no, any sensible boiler will shut down if heat is not removed from thecirculating water
Valliant boilers? I think the boiler might be older than that but worth a check if the case?
Cheers, T i m
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