Are you saying you get types with a fence? Otherwise it comes down to skill - unlike a wet one.
That covers most tiles. ;-)
Didn't find that a problem doing my large bathroom. And with the high cost of the tiles I preferred the reliability of the wet cutter. No spoiled tiles with that.
Of course it could be I've never tried a really good score and snap device. But I'm not sure I'd want to pay a fortune for one given a wet cutter will do everything it can and more - only more slowly.
forgot to add, the cut edges aren't sharp
I think I'd be sceptical if told that
I always stayed away from titan, until I gave in and bought a cordless whatsit. It performs fine, but the charger runs so hot it produces mild burning smells and is too hot to touch. Live and learn.
NT
Even with the guard fully up theres barely any. I dont know why. I'm happy with the Erbauer, with one exception. The measurement scales used to set the rear end of the guard to the same position as the front peel off on day 1, making fence adjustment unnecessarily slow.
NT
It's an end stop rather than a fence. What I'm curious about is how you do tapered cuts on a saw, the sort of thing where one end of the tile needs to be, say, 75mm and the other
73mm. On the typical wall, the next tile is then likely to be 73mm/71mm, and so on. On a snap cutter I can align the pencil marks top and bottom, scribe, snap (20 seconds?). I don't see how you can do that accurately on a saw given that you can't use the parallel fence. In case anyone (Tim?) thinks that snappers are for pros, it's worth mentioning that a decent one requires zero skill and minimal effort. On the cheaper types where the tile has to be re-positioned between jaws for the snap, it's difficult to get the pressure precisely on the score line and, because you're pinching the tile only at the edge, the chances of a clean cut are reduced. I once did a floor with one of those and I think I probably wasted 20% of the tiles. Than I saw the light.
You can set the fence to the non-parallel dimensions and cut the tile but having tried that and finding it a fiddle (and very slow), I just took the fence off, marked the tile with a pencil line and fed it onto the saw freehand.
The fence has never returned...
In message , NT writes
I bought a Titan cordless drill from S'fix. Hammer action NBG but everything else OK.
Battery life not overlong and cheaper to buy another identical drill for spares. Chargers don't feel hot but perhaps that explains the short battery life?
regards
Hence the sliding saw variety. Do try and keep up. ;-)
The one I have doesn't need the tile re-positioned - you just return the handle to the rest position after scoring and press down. But anywhere near the edge of the tile and you don't get a clean break. Needs to be perhaps 1.5-2" in from the edge on a large tile. But then as I've said there are likely better ones on the market - mine came from Wicks and some time ago.
So, where accuracy is critical, you have to judge it by eye? :-) IMO if the vertical line going into the corner isn't perfect, it stands out like a sore thumb
I'm not surprised given the blade can only cut properly in a straight line. Mine has an adjustable angle thingie which slides on the (parallel) fence - but is of limited use IMHO.
It's ideal for making identical cuts. And for most tiling right angles are needed. Apart from where they meet the ceiling. Possibly.
You must have very straight walls
Handy for porcelain or marble but overkill for ceramics I'd say
IIRC I can do a half inch offcut on mine (unless it's the last tile in the box of course, when it's bound to go wrong :-)).
When I did the bathroom, I straightened them out first. Anything else looks truly awful.
I tend to agree if your storage is limited. I managed loads of porcelain ones with a normal Plasplugs. Doesn't mean I'd not like one, though. ;-)
Pretty well all the tiles here are 'hard' ones. Must just be my taste.
No, you have a pencil line to follow. There's little chance of it wandering so long as you don't try forcing it.
I cut literally dozens like this with no rejects.
Fixed blade machines can do angled cuts too, just not as easy to use that way.
NT
Generally you have to do them freehand. So not easy to do lots *exactly* the same - unlike when using a fence.
Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:
Which make was yours Stuart?
Cheers
Tim
A fairly basic Rubi, similar to the Screwfix Pro snapper
Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:
Thanks Stuart
Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:
Ow - I've just seen the price - are they really £200+ ? Or am I looking at the wrong thing:
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