What is the correct name for them and where do I find them? I've
googled and amazoned, but there are so many different kinds I can't
see the wood for the trees.
I've always tinned the wire strands to (a) make it easier to fit them
into the screwed holder and (b) stop the strands from splaying when
tightening the screw.
The above cable is off an old Woolworths extension lead.
I prefer the ones that have a short plastic sleeve incorporated to act as
funnel and ensure no free strands escape.
or the uninsulated ones:
The other reason not to tin is it provides a fatigue point at the exit from
the solder lump. That's not much of a problem in household wiring, but it
is in something that sees vibration - like a power tool or a car.
On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 11:58:42 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
A couple of years ago I was at Cosford Air Museum. They had just taken
delivery of a Nimrod, and had removed the wings to transport it. It was
plonked outside one of the hangers.
The removed wings exposed the spaghetti of wiring - all cut. It was
heartbreaking in a way.
Hundreds of wires - all white. I presume that was some part of making it
difficult to easily reverse engineer.
It was interesting to think that at sometime someone would have known
what each wire did, and where it went.
I'd ask those who tin the ends of the leads what current they are taking
from the circuit?
It's often thin wires which would be easier to fit if tinned. So if only a
couple of amps at peak, less likely to give trouble regardless.
What would happen at the maximum continuous rating - ie 13 amps - would be
interesting. Even some factory fit moulded plugs will get warm or even hot
at full load.
*I don't work here. I'm a consultant
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
On Sat, 04 Jun 2016 13:41:49 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
I'd agree that it would be more typical that *I* would generally tin
(and fold and tin) finer wires, simply to hold them together and have
a better chance for the screw to have something to bite down on than I
might on heaver / less stranded wire.
I think if properly tinned (eg, not 'over ' soldered) and tightened
correctly / sufficiently then nothing.
They can indeed and here is one I saw earlier. ;-
Mate had his compressor plugged into a rubber trailing socket that was
previously wired directly into the previous (higher power) compressor.
The fuse had gone a couple of times recently so because it was
connected to it's own MCB someone though a solution would be some
silver foil round the fuse. ;-(
I think a combination of a poor quality moulded plug (in comparison
with an MK one) and plugged into a rubber trailing socket (even a
branded one) allowed localised heating and potentially further stress
on the fuse.
To help them isolate the fault, I checked it wasn't seized, that the
caps were ok and after replacing the plug, that the motor ran ok on
it's own. I then connected it back up and let it run up to full
pressure and the plug was still cold (probably helped by being plugged
into a decent Metalclad socket).
I've suggested they get the plug replaced with a decent (MK) one and a
decent Metalclad socket fitted to the wall beside the compressor.
Cheers, T i m
Actually, I would say it's a very clear illustration of how the solder
has crept under the neutral and earth screws.
Another problem with soldering tails is that it makes it very easy to
pinch them off by tightening the screw too much. Think of how easy it
is to pinch a bit of solder off a reel with your thumbnail. Now try
doing that with stripped copper wire.
I used to tin my wire tails; I don't any more. If it's possible to
strip a longer length of insulation back, double the stripped end over
and insert that in the plug terminal, I do that instead.
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
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