Lighter weight means you can work for longer before getting tired. It's why I don't especially recommend the better makes with metal gears for cordless drills, I don't think the tradeoff is worth it.
NT
For ordinary DIY use, I'm not convinced buying a 'posh' make is any sense over a Lidl one. Especially since Lidl have a better warranty than many. The battery is usually the thing that gives trouble first, and a genuine 'posh' one can be very expensive to replace. With cheap ones usually not working as well.
Last year Lidl sold a 20V range of tools selling the tool and the battery w ith charger separately, the tools had the 3 year warranty the battery and c hargers did not. Someone realised the batteries were the cause of many clai ms, the only problem certainly round here is people stocked up with batteri es and chargers which were ludicrously cheap compared to well known makes a nd left all the stores with loads of batteryless tools.
Richard
I have several ALDI/LIDL tools, and they are mostly fine. But I have never regretted buying the Makitas, they just have a better and more solid feel than ALDI/LIDL. But they are the power tools which I use more often than anything else (and as I explained, were not expensive). I think the drill (with a box full of accessories) was about £100 with a charger and one battery, the impact driver about £60 plus £25 for a battery.
If you have never tried one, I *really* recommend a posh dedicated impact screwdriver over a normal combi drill. Hardly ever use a manual screwdriver now.
At the pace I work I've never regretted following the recommendation here (I think from TMH) and buying the Makita 10.8V drill and driver set. "Small but perfectly formed." And they fit in places BFO tools won't go.
No doubt overtaken now but
My impact driver has a hex 'chuck'. Don't fancy having to buy hex drills for that. Or having to bother with an adaptor when used as an impact driver.
Don't really need a combi cordless drill either. Have an SDS for tough masonry.
I bought the previous generation of 18v ones which shared the same battery. Combi drill, circular saw and jigsaw. All of which I have mains versions of too - but not Lidl. Also bought some spare batteries - they are likely too small for a pro at 1.5 amp.hr, but OK for my sort of DIY. Been very pleased with them. Not sure I could have justified buying a posh name set for DIY.
A true impact driver isn't going to work with a normal chuck. Too much slip. So has a hex (or square drive) one.
If it has an ordinary chuck, an adaptor to take the screwdriver bits?
Same with the Bosch Pro 10.8V. I reckon that it's at least as good as the Makita drill-driver 12V on NiCads - and the 18V Bosch Pro combi is way ahead of a 6-yo Makita 18V combi (also NiCads). Not surprising really, given the advances in batteries and motors. The 2Ah batteries for the 18V Bosch don't seem to last any longer than the
1.4Ah ones in the Makita, but I can get more done in that time. To be fair, where I would have had to get the SDS, marginally, with the Makita, the Bosch will do it, so I'm hammering it more. I'm sure that a Modern Makita of similar spec. to the Bosch would be at least as good.
Mine too, generally impact drivers are a bit "rough" on drill bits, so why would you? Though I have used a stubby quad-flute bit in an impact driver for threading cables through joists ... driver and bit both short, so easy to get in tight space without a right-angle adapter, fast but rather noisy.
This is true, but in the old days before SDS (or keyless chucks) we all used carbide drills in a conventional chuck.
There is a clear distinction between the impact motion in a combi drill (what we would have called a hammer drill in the old days) and that provided by the modern generation of "impact screwdrivers" like this
In a hammer drill, the impact motion is engaged by the axial force, you are compressing a spring which engages a sort of "bumpy" thrust bearing provided you push hard enough. In the fancy driver, the impact system is engaged when the torque (perhaps more likely the motor current) exceeds a threshold. They also have a more gentle "slow start" on the trigger. This makes them very much more controllable when driving screws of any sort. If you have never used one before, they are a revelation.
I suspect he was suggesting that an ID was a massive improvement on a drill for screw driving, not that it was a replacement for it in all things...
I find it quite handy since I am frequently drilling "normal" masonry for fixing things to walls etc. In those cases a bosch multi-material bit in combi drill usually copes.
(in fact if going to a client's site where there is a chance I will need to fix something to a wall, I will quite often just take my bag with the
10.8V Makita combi drill and ID, since they are so much smaller and lighter to carry about. They will cope with 7mm plugs into masonry walls ok).
That is indeed the type of impact driver I used with the woodbeaver bit.
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