Cooker connection -

[Tim Watts]

Hi,

1) Unless the manufacturer says otherwise, is it still considered the "done thing" to use suitably sized T+E for the final connection to a freestanding cooker, on the basis it doesn't move much?

Looking at a lumpy induction beast - 45A circuit, so 6mm2 at a pinch,

10mm2 probably better as the ambient temperature is likely to be "warm" (>=35C)

2) Some manufacturers specify H07 type cable. 6mm2 will suffice due to higher permissible running temperature. But that's now a big fat 15mm dia rubber cable.

Are there any cooker outlet plates that are more generous than normal, because pretty sure 15mm isn't going to fit well in the average one.

If not, the only solution I can think of (apart from ignoring the manufacturer) would be an external 45A joint with T+E back to the plate and shoved behind a cupboard.

Or, possibly feeding the H07 through the 25mm conduit and jointing directly in the isolator. Not so easy to disconnect and I'd need to make a mask for the outlet box to protect the cable from the backbox edges.

Cheers,

Tim

[newshound]

That's what I have normally done (I forget the rating of my current oven). Although ambient temperature can be high, it is relatively accessible and easy to replace if it does degrade.

[cpvh]

Many many years ago, I wired up ?cooker? to the cooker side of a cooker & 13A socket affair. It was in a council house and ?they? had installed the cooker switch and then there was a very beefy cable outlet behind the cooker.

My ?cooker? just required a 13A socket for its spark doobry and clock.

I was surprised to find the outlet behind the cooker (Basically a back box, a hefty brass 3 pole in insulated chock block and a cover). Had no wire coming down from the switch unit.

From memory, I took a thin gauge flex from the cooker switch down the conduit to the connector and past the chunky choc bloc and wired straight into a surface mount 13A socket.

You could use chunky T&E down to the choc bloc (assuming these accessories are still sold) and then Your 15mm dia stuff from there.

Cheers

Chris

[harry]

You're not likely to have everything on at once anyway.

[spuorgelgoog]

Some kind soul wired my cooker point in 16mm2 cable.

Scolmore PRW217 45A says suitable for 10mm2 cable. Scolmore PRW218 is the surface pattress box if you need it.

Owain

[Steve Walker]

Mine is in 16mm2 when I re-wired the house, I was given 25m of it for free.

One of my jobs in the next few weeks is to move it to the other side of the kitchen - which I am not looking forward to.

Steve

[John Kenyon]

Some hobs have a "feature" where you can restrict the maximum load presented to match the capability of the supply, so permitting the use of a lower rated cable, provided the MCB/RCBO is dimensioned to suit the cable.

[Tim Watts]

That's pretty chunky - thank you :)

[tabbypurr]

Look up 'diversity', you don't need anywhere near 15mm2.

NT

[Robin]

15mm is the /external/ diameter of the 6mm cable in mind for a 45A supply; and I'd be wary of anything less than a 45A circuit without knowing more about the cooker and the cook's habits. Some of the all-electric stoves with induction hobs are heading for 20kW these days. And I'm also minded to have some regard to the maker's instructions.

[charles]

Cable is measured by conductor size, not outside diameter. When you say

15mm, electricians think of 76A rated cable.

[Robin]

The only reference to 15mm was in "a big fat 15mm dia rubber cable" which seems to be both fair and unambiguous when the OP was looking for a suitable cable outlet.

[Tim Watts]

6mm2, 15mm diameter...

[Tim Watts]

Yes I know that.

However 15mm OD is the major factor when it comes to "will it fit in this cooker connection plate" as the latter are deisgned with flat cable in mind