Yep they tend to try to help by grouping things by task as opposed to strict alpha order. My link gives the picture, title & their "SKU" number which the desk will have no problem helping find the item if it's in stock - their website is usually pretty accurate with a store's stock level - or they can order it in (possibly at a charge unless you break a ££ spend level - usually not much)
Good advice, it's really runny..
(I don't know what SMR is)
Out kitchen has laminated Chipboard worktops. (My wife'e eysight wasn't compatable with the granite ones)
The butted joints were probably not sealed as well as they should and some slight swelling is becoming noticable.
I was wondering if a solution could be to route a shallow groove and then fill it with an epoxy type filler.
Any thoughts?
On 14/01/2020 10:46, John wrote:> Out kitchen has laminated Chipboard worktops. (My wife'e eysight wasn't > compatable with the granite ones) >
Perhaps route, but brush silicone sealer well into the groove then top off conventionally whilst still unset, for a finished seal?
Tape along both edges will ensure a neat finish and remove when wet.
I sealed a hob cutout once in chipboard by smearing silicone around the cut face. Seemed to work and the chipboard is so rough that the silicon seems to really bind.
Is it under warranty?
Scott snipped-for-privacy@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
No - and I wouldn't want it replaced - too disruptive.
I think a case of the builder thinking he could fit a kitchen but had never read any instructions (as most never do)
that will work, yes. save money and use car body filler. (polyester) You can get pigments for polyester resins too
However consider new worktop altogether. It's not very expensive.
somethoig that soaks in is better. polyester resin.
You can get colour matched fillers for worktops
Replacement is not the only option under a warranty claim.
Claim against the builder? Should you not be speaking to the builder first to see what he is prepared to offer?
Andy Burns snipped-for-privacy@andyburns.uk wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:
Yes - it it had been installed properly using that then I wouldn't have a problem. I am hoping it is possible to create a groove to cut away the lifted laminate and fill with that or similar
How wide a groove are you talking about, how much 'pattern' is there within the laminate?
I think any groove filled even with a matching filler will stand out like a sore thumb especially if there is any pattern in the top surface. Your best option of keeping the existing work top is to separate the two pieces and try to scrape out any expanded chipboard and gently pressing the top surface back into position before filling any gaps Even doing that I think the success rate will be very low as melamine top surfaces are quite hard and brittle and will tend to crack and chip very easily.
Richard
Have you discussed the problem with the builder before criticising his workmanship? Maybe the issue is mistreatment by the user.
SBR would probably make a nice job of that - penetrates and stabilises very well.
If going the routing route, then I would see if you can get a matching strip of laminate for the worktop (most of the sheds do them so you can cover cut edges etc). Then using a made up jig and guide bush, you can route a slot wide enough to cover the join. Change the bush, and route the exact matching infil bit. Paint the exposed chip with SBR to seal it. Finally glue in the patch with impact adhesive.
Or varnish. Used that on the exposed edge of a bit of chipboard worktop in the "temporary" kitchen. No sign of any wet penetration and this is adjacent to a sit on sink unit so gets wet fairly frequently.
Sure. Whatever you do though, laminated chipboard always swells & breaks up in time.
NT
Ours is swelling along the bottom of the front edge near the sink. I would use my router to thin it back down and then seal it, but we need to change it anyway as we are removing the cooker and replacing it with a separate oven and hob. The worktop has lasted 27 years though.
SteveW
Brush several coats of PVA on the cut edges. Or if fitted, dribble it into the joint.
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