18mm or 22mm chipboard floor?

[inNeedofHelp]

Hi, We are planning replacing our floorboarded kitchen floor with chipboard. The boards are in bad nick with being cut over the years and lifted for electrics and heating. The joists are spaced at 40cm, from middle to middle so according to readers digest 18mm Chippy would be fine.

am wondering if 22mm would be better as I will have less packing out to do, to bring the floor to the same level as the hall as the current floorboards are around 25mm thick. Or should I stick to 18mm and use something to pack it up to the height of hall?

It is a tenament 1st floor flat in case that makes a difference.

What are the best materials for packing, I was just going to use some hardboard I have.

I am going for toungue and groove so I lay long edge across joists and not need to make noggings.

Then I can put a layer of ply down and tile. Actually this will add height, so should I worry too much about making the chipboard floor match the hall floor height? Only issue would if there are any boards in kitchen I can't lift there will be a height mismatch.

I am also hoping that once the chippy is screwed down, and level it will stop the washing machine dancing across the kitchen.

Any tips most welcome :-)

tks

[jim_in_sussex]

size make sure it is floor grade & moisture resist - moisture slowly over the years swells chipboard until it is like cardboard). I ripped up mine & replaced it with 22mm T&G in the bedroom. I used 22mm in the bathroom well protected by varnish & vinyl floor tiles, that has been OK.

18mm is a waste of time & money

If yoo're putting heavy weights on the floor, especially dynamic ones like a washing m/c, you should look at reinforcing the joists, perhaps by doubling up and/or by (additional) herring bone strutting

You can make a guesstimate as to what is needed by jumping up & down plus observing what happens as you walk slowly over the floor - perhaps 2 people together if you're small.

I've no experience of plywood, but I have been told by those who have that 18mm or thicker ply is superior to both chipboard & T&G for rigidity.

HTH

[Fred]

I would probably use 7" x 1" PAR because it's not tongued and grooved. It means you don't make a mess if you ever need to get to any electrics etc. It's more expensive than chipboard but when planed will be the nominal 22mm. It's also fairly moisture resistant and won't swell. It can also take varnish and look good. Just my two pennies worth!

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'd advise against this. I've seen too many chipboard kitchen floors that have to be replaced through water spillage and subsequent swelling.

I'd fix the existing floorboards. It's unlikely they are all scrap. You might find decent secondhand ones at a reclaim yard that are exactly the same size - or plane down new ones to fit.

Screw all replacements rather than nailing. Then - as is inevitable - they'll be easy to lift when required. Unlike T&G chipboard which is near impossible.

[bigcat]

Replacing a dozen floorboards is cheaper and less work than reflooring the lot in chip. And boards are vastly superior to chip. I dont call it shitboard for nothing.

If you want the boards to look good, first wash them well. Mop and bucket, water, weashing powder, and a few drops of bleach. Wet, wait 2 minutes, wash, and repeat this several times. Expect 1-2 hrs of mopping, just keep on at it over and over until it looks good.

Second deal with the gaps. Lift and renail is easier than filling.

Third, varnish with floor grade varnish. Never use tinted varnish, ever ever ever.

You now have a _good_ quality floor, nothing like shitboard. It looks good, feels good, has a great finish, and will last centuries. Chip fails on all those points.

NT

[bigcat]

Replacing a dozen floorboards is cheaper and less work than reflooring the lot in chip. And boards are vastly superior to chip. I dont call it shitboard for nothing.

If you want the boards to look good, first wash them well. Mop and bucket, water, weashing powder, and a few drops of bleach. Wet, wait 2 minutes, wash, and repeat this several times. Expect 1-2 hrs of mopping, just keep on at it over and over until it looks good.

Second deal with the gaps. Lift and renail is easier than filling.

Third, varnish with floor grade varnish. Never use tinted varnish, ever ever ever.

You now have a _good_ quality floor, nothing like shitboard. It looks good, feels good, has a great finish, and will last centuries. Chip fails on all those points.

NT

Oh, flooring thickness... I saw 1/4" ply used once. It bent badly underfoot :) Ply is much superior to chip, but is equally more expensive.

[nightjar]

....

If you use chipboard, there ought to be no need for the layer of ply and the tiles ought to add just enough height for 22mm to be the right choice. However, make sure you buy the water resistant grade, which has a green colour.

Colin Bignell

[David Hearn]

If he's tiling the floor afterwards then access to under the floor will be difficult anyway. I've often wondered what people do about that....

David

[The Natural Philosopher]

Even that swells alarmingly if it gets permentently wet.

The good news is that it goes back when it dries, and seems reasonable strong afterwards

[The Natural Philosopher]

Ive seen boards a tile width across screwe with cup washer/screws to the floor with pipes underneath

My attidutde these days is that taking up a floor or ripping out a section of a studwall is less hassle than an ugly inspection hatch anyway.

[inNeedofHelp]

...

A whole range of replies. Thanks guys.

I have read in numerous places not to tile onto chipboard. Not sure of exactly why, but I did think if I ever wanted to lift the tiles at least if it is overboarded with ply I don't have to replace whole floor again!

Also access, yip T & G chip is going to be a nightmare if you need access, but then as some one pointed out the floor will be tiled so no matter what, tiles are going to have to come up anyway so acess will be a nightmare full stop. I will however leave a wee hatch under washing machine for drain valve acess to the CH.

I am deffo not sticking with the floorboards, they really are terrible and all bowed, so I think it will be :- Re - Floor with 22mm T & G (waterproof green version) Screwed down Overboard with 12mm Ply (nailed) then Tile. Also will try and sort out where washing machine will be.

And hopefully job a good un.

Thanks guys :)

Now just to order and get the damn stuff up to the first floor!