Repairs to chipboard

[Scott]

Now on to part 4 of the Schuko installation problem. I have bought a dry lining box that will fit the chipboard (25mm lugs). On removing the previous box, I have discovered that the size of the hole is larger than (the inner part of) the box with a bit of slack on all sides. I am hoping that the design of the dry lining box will cope with this.

If not, what is the best way to build up the chipboard? I had four ideas:

1. Plastic wood and file to shape
2. Thin ply attached using panel pins
3. Cardboard and panel plns
4. Screws, possibly with a washer to get the size right

However, it does occur to me that maybe the hole should be larger than the box to allow final adjustment of the socket.

Any ideas, before I start? Scott

[polygonum_on_google]

My first idea, check what depth back box you have. I think you'll need 47mm.

Just how much bigger is the hole than the back box? If the gap is more than the lugs can cope with, but not larger than the lip, I'd probably use a bit of one of the building adhesives, squirt round the back box before pushing it into place. Allow plenty of time for it to go off.

(I fitted my first Schuko the other day. Preferable to using one of the rather bulky Schuko-to-13A adaptor which got in the way.)

[tabbypurr]

Whatever junk you've got. I wouldn't use cardboard though. Filing would be a waste of time, if you did use something fileable just press the plastic box into it while wet.

NT

[polygonum_on_google]

Just to be clear, I did mean push the box into the filler/adhesive while it is wet - THEN give it plenty of time to dry/set.

[Scott]

Thanks. I wondered that in bed last night (no comments please). Is it the case that the hole should be slightly larger to allow final adjustment of the position of the socket?

[Scott]

It is 47mm.

I think They will grip, but will find out soon

They are neat. They also grip the Europlug more securely than the likes of shaver sockets.

As a matter of interest, did you fit it via a fused connection unit? I understand it is bad practice to connect an unfused plug to the ring main. What value of fuse did you use? I'm going to try 2 amps to begin with given my intended use.

[Scott]

Thanks then. Sounds like I should give it a go to see if it grips securely and if not find a way of filling the space. I'm starting to get annoyed with the kitchen fitters now :-(

[Tim Watts]

Shucko's are 16A.

So you may fit to a 16A radial socket circuit directly.

Or FCU and 13A fuse.

As you correctly observed, do no stick it in a 32A ring without additional fusing.

[Scott]

Maximum.

I think that would be OTT for charging a toothbrush etc. My heavy current appliances all have UK plugs.

Except I thought the theory was that the fuse was intended to protect the cable. I cannot imagine a toothbrush or shaver charger cable would carry 13 amps. I thought a 2 amp fuse would offer added safety.

Indeed. MK insisted on a statement of intended use for a non-UK approved product and I made this clear.

[Scott]

[snip]

Update - the replacement dry lining box has fitted the space though only just - there was about 1mm gap at the top, which I fixed with a few gentle upward taps to the socket.

Thanks everyone for contributions to this discussion.

[polygonum_on_google]

The space for the freezer had been fitted by the housebuilder - two FCUs, one for refrigerator, one for freezer, both in wall above countertop. In the spaces, one switched socket in each.

Therefore I really didn't have to think very much. :-) Did not change fuse - actually didn't even look at it. Be amazed if it isn't default 13A.

[Jim K..]

But this is a dry lining box with tabs/ears to grip the surrounding sheet material & more importantly, in which to locate the faceplate screws i.e. they have to be in the right place or be adjustable to be in the right place, otherwise the op is back where he started or worse...

All this "stick the box in with gunk & allow to set" guff makes me wonder if anyone has actually done this or whether it's just yet more "armchair expertise"?

[Jim K..]

If in plasterboard say (or I spose anything else) you would take some care to size & align the hole for the plastic back box as true as possible, the lugs/ears grip the plasterboard/sheet material as you tighten the faceplate screws into them (sandwiching the sheet material between the faceplate & back box), so there is a bit of wiggle room to finesse the alignment as you finally tighten them.

Careful with that glue Eugene!