I am having to take up and replace a water damaged laminate floor in a small L shaped hall with 5 doors leading off it.
I have carefully taken up the old laminate intending to use it as a template for the new cuts.
The old laminate was laid by a professional from a carpet shop and I am scratching my head as to how he managed to get the ends to go under the architraves without leaving large gaps at the far end where it has been slid into place.
There is a trick here that I am missing. Does anyone know how he did it?
Thank you all. Job done with a combination of all of your tips. Especially
useful was the idea of doing one leg of hallway as a floating floor and the
n sliding it into it's final position. I also found that sanding the groove
d side of the strips made it much easier to work with them and no need for
You can get a black plastic block which fits along one edge of the
board, you then whack the block with a hammer and the piece you're
working on will slide along the previous row. There's a steel thingy as
well which you can use for the same purpose when the bit you're working
on is next to the wall and there's no room to get a hammer in.
Remember to leave a gap around the edges for expansion.
On 07/09/2015 15:19, Rednadnerb wrote:
hall with 5 doors leading off it.
as to how he managed to get the ends to go under the architraves without
leaving large gaps at
the far end where it has been slid into place.
Thanks for the tips. I have fitted laminate before so have the black plastic block and the steel thingy. Neither of them are going to help me with this problem.
The fitter didn't remove the architrave when he did it before (or so I've been told).
I've always had to fill the gaps that are left with coloured goo that they sell in the sheds.
I suspect the fitter used some kind of trick like trimming the groove and using glue but I couldn't see anything obvious.
plastic block and the steel thingy. Neither of them are going to help
me with this problem.
I've been told).
they sell in the sheds.
and using glue but I couldn't see anything obvious.
I see - sorry I missed the point about it being at the other end where
the gap would be. Can't see away around it myself without remove
architrave unless you could somehow get it pushed really far into the
gap under the laminate at one end then fit the other end as tight to the
bottom of the architrave at the other and somehow shimmy the whole row
along so it was half under each architrave. Not sure how you'd do that
though. Suction pads on the laminate and a hammer?!
Slide the first row under the door frame into its final position and
then lay the rest of the floor without any further sliding. When you get
to the other end, you'll be able to fit the last row (cut lengthwise) to
leave the required 10mm gap, the same as you should have left along all
the other walls. Then cover the gap all round with quadrant beads.
You can make a much neater job if you take off the skirtings, fit the
floor and then re-fit new skirtings, since you can then use the
skirtings to cover the gap and won't need the quadrant bead.
How was it done originally? under skirtings or quadrant bead?
In that case, just do the same again. It should be easy to get the right
gap with the rest of the floor already in place. You just need room to
hinge the last bit down into position. 10mm should be plenty for that.
One other thought. Are you sure you're fitting the floor the right way
round? It's just about possible to fit it the wrong way round, but it'll
be really awkward and you'll need a lot of extra room to get the last
I haven't really explained it very well. But it's a bit like this, if you had a room with a skirting all the way round and a gap under the skirting for the laminate to go under, how would you go about laying the laminate?
Its hard, but it can be done.
for the edges at the extreme ends of LONG strips, you need to use two
strips butt jointed in the middle and slide each end under and then set
the butts together. if the laminate clicks together cut a strip in half
etc. and put the cut ends under the skirting.
For edges parallel to the run of the laminate, yiu have to do the edges
first and somhoe lay a strip in the middle as teh last bit.
Needless to say its a bitch of a job and removing skirting is normally
You should leave pretty much the whole width of the skirting as a gap
for expansion so another way is to cut the boards to exactly be one
skirting width less than the room, assemble the whole lot as a floating
floor under two edges of the skirting, and then slide it back halfway
under the two other edges.
New Socialism consists essentially in being seen to have your heart in
the right place whilst your head is in the clouds and your hand is in
So you're saying there's laminate-sized gaps under the skirtings *and*
the water-damaged laminate had quadrant beads?
I'd have thought your options are the same though,
whether there's a laminate-sized gap under the skirtings or not:-
If you want to get the neatest look, then take off the skirtings, lay
the laminate with 10mm gaps to the walls and then put the skirtings
back, overlapping the gap. The original gap under the skirtings, if
there is one, will be no good to you as your finished floor effectively
needs to be bigger than the "hole" you have to get it through.
Easier and quicker would be to leave the skirting as-is, lay the floor
with a gap to the skirting and then cover the gap with new quadrant
bead. Not so nice looking, but it sounds like that's what you had
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