I have solid hardwood Bruce flooring in my dinning room/kitchen. It
was laid about 4 years ago. It is called "Gunstock".
The carpet in my adjoining dinning room and adjacent hallway is
showing it's wear due to the kids spilling things and traffic in
I have available to me some new "laminate: hardwood flooring also
called "gunstock" althought the color is not exactly the same as my
solid hardwood floor. This flooring is basically free and have debated
laying it myself. (I have never laid laminante or solid hardwood for
What is your opinion as to if this will look aceptable? I can still go
back with carpet, but it will cost more. I can also go back with solid
wood flooring, but it will cost alot more. I plan on leaving the
carpet in the bedrooms as it is in good shape.
Here is a link to a video of my current flooring and a few pieces of
the laminate butted up against it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ãYePipT7zo
Well, laminate usually sticks out like a sore thumb next to natural
wood. But from your video it is hard to tell. Laminates are getting
I am with Oren, above. Lay out some more and then test it with every
kind of light that will hit it. If you are happy we are too :^}
'Dining room' and 'carpet' and 'kids' in the same sentence?
Not a fan of laminate, but given the free material and the operating
conditions, I'd say it is the way to go. Unlike real hardwood, laminate
is easily reversible once the kids get older, or the next owner decides
they want something different. Real wood top layer on the laminate, of
faux printed? I'd make the grain or 'grain' direction go at right angles
to the real wood- that will help disguise the difference in the color.
You can make another 90-degree transition to go down the hallway. Make
sure you have enough of the laminate in the exact same shade before you
start! Don't forget that there will be some wastage due to cuts and such.
If the existing floor is solid wood, you might consider refinishing it
first, trying to match the new laminate, and then put down the new
laminate. Make the transitions in the doorways where it shows the
least, in the darkest doorways areas if possible. From the video, the
old wood floors are fairly discolored, so refinishing them would not
be a bad idea anyway.
I was thinking the laminate should continue across the living room the
same direction as the dinning room? (Boards parallel to the dinning
room.) Is that not correct? Are you sayign they should be
perpendicular? (I am a newbie at this).
Hard to tell definitively what with all the camera movement but the solid
wood looks like oak, the laminate doesn't.
The name (Gunstock) doesn't matter as that is just the finish color. The
same color on oak and, say, maple will look very different because of the
inherent differences in the woods.
Should you use the laminate? Can't say, depends on your tolerance for a
markedly different look compared to what you have.
Well, the CARPET doesn't look the same as the existing wood floor, so I'd
say your new laminate is probably okay. Worst case, you lay a bunch of the
stuff and the wife goest nuts. In that case, you simply pick it up and start
over with a carpet.
Laying laminate itself is easy. Follow these simple hints:
* Take up the floorboards. This will give you an opportunity to take them
outside, fill the dents, sand off the stains, and repaint. Also you'll be
able to lay the laminate close to the wall, cover with the baseboards, and
avoid the tacky quarter-round.
* When you put the baseboards back, there will be gaps beneath the
baseboards and the new floor. This is because no floor is perfectly level.
Here's how to fix: Using a cheap school compass, open it to the widest gap.
Then trace a line the length of the baseboard while the baseboard is in
place. This is the line to which you should remove stock from the
baseboard - with a jig saw or sander. The resulting baseboard will have a
wavy or undulating bottom, but should fit perfectly on your warped floor.
* Undercut the door frames to slide the laminate beneath. The tool to do
this is listed below.
* Tape a piece of cellophane wrap to the bare concrete for a couple of days.
If you see condensation under the wrap, you MUST have a vapor barrier, but
it's good to have one anyway.
* Usually laminate is laid parallel to the longest dimension of the room.
This is not an inflexible rule, simply the most common and the least jarring
on the eyes. Rubber-backed area rugs are common.
* Tools you will need:
- Rubber hammer
- Measuring tape
- Utility knife
- Harbor Freight Multi-Function Miracle Tool (for the door jambs)
- A saw. Best is a cheap table saw (~$100) or an electric saw. You will
have to cut-to-length one plank of laminate on each row, and will probably
have to rip a whole row as you reach the far wall.
- Pry bar
- An L-shaped bar and a two-pound sledge to knock the shit out of the
planks that refuse to lock together properly. Here's one:
- You've got to take up the nails that held down the carpet tack strips.
I've found a cheap angle-grinder with a metal cutting wheel the easiest;
just cut the suckers off !
Anyway, there's lots of folks here who've installed laminate. Check back
with any questions you have and tap into our experience. Most will agree
that it's a straight-forward, and fun, project.
This is a crawlspace foundation. Wood subfloor underneath.
When laying laminate would you lay it from the livign room through the
hallway all together? Or would you put a transition stip where the
living room meets the hallway?
The fewer transitions, the better. If possible, make it continuous.
Transitions are usually used when there is a change in the flooring material
(carpet to vinyl) or, in your case, where there's a change in texture,
color, depth, etc.
Would some sort of heating system work well under laminate flooring?
One thing my wife is worried about is the floor being cold in the
winter. Are these expensive? My living room is about 19 feet x 16 feet.
I have a laminate floor in my
living/family room. The room has a very
high peak tongue & groove ceiling. Even
with a large rug under the seating area,
it is very hard to hear detail on the
TV. There is a lot of echo. I have a
large organ in the room and it is echo
is great for that. I think if I had to
do it over, I would have carpeted the
room. My wife says she likes it the way
it is, but she has a harder time hearing
the TV than me. BTW, my hearing to
pretty good yet.
Ixnay on the heating. I suspect it will warp the floor, plus the laminate is
a pretty good insulator in itself. Even if you could heat the floor, the
wife's feet are still going to be cold. Women have about 60% of the blood
supply to the feet as men do.
Your better solution to a cold, laminate, floor is the liberal application
of tube socks.
Plus, they'll help keep the floor clean.
I felt the same way when an architect's description of a building's facing
was described as "Man-made stone."
Specifically, "engineered hardwood" is mystery material with a veneer of
hardwood glued to it.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.