Hello,
Can anyone reccomend a supplier for 96" Bandsaw blades?
Through googling I've only found
Thanks in advance,
Alan.
Hello,
Can anyone reccomend a supplier for 96" Bandsaw blades?
Through googling I've only found
Thanks in advance,
Alan.
Try Scott and Sargeant.
They mainly carry woodworking machinery but have a wide range of bandsaw blades and can probably get metal cutting ones if they don't have them
Yellow pages. Any reasonably sized town is likely to have an industrial stockist who welds them up to order, often over the counter. You get a far greater range of tooth profiles too. I use a place in Cwmbran.
I'd be very wary of this. I'm guessing you have an Axminster BS350 if you're using 96" blades. Although you can do this, it's far from being a metal cutting saw. It's workable for the odd bit of brass or aluminium if you've nothing better, but it's not up to steel and it's also a royal pain to clean up afterwards. I'd suggest a decent jigsaw instead.
Hello,
It is an Anminster something, but I'm not near it to find the model number. My main use is cutting wood, however for the occasional time I need to cut metal neatly (usually thin steel sheet) it would be nice to have a few blades "in stock" as a jigsaw on metal is a royal PITA, and a nibbler is hard work to get accurate cuts.
Alan.
Alan.
The speed of a metalworking bandsaw is much lower than one for woodworking so you are likely to overheat and ruin your blade cutting steel.
Archie
In message , Archie writes
Umm. Interesting thread. I had in mind using a coarse metal blade for re-sawing old Oak to sort out the occasional nail.
regards
The Axminster 350 is a two-speed. The lower speed is OK for most metal sawing (there's obviously no coolant supply). As it's also undpowered as standard, many people run it low speed anyway to get better torque.
Bandsaws will usually survive an embedded nail far better than they'll survive a randomly encountered loose one that suddenly grabs. Although hook teeth are more fragile here.
However a "metal sawing" blade will be useless on wood, especially thick stuff, as there's no chip clearance space. You'll do better with a real wood blade and living with occasional damage, rather than trying to saw thick oak with a metal blade.
BTW - It's _well_ worth reading Duginske's bandsaw book, especially before choosing blades.
I've checked - the model number is a 350. I hadn't found the speed change yet (bought second-hand recently!) Is it a mechanical ratio change or electronic motor speed change? Where is it set?
Alan.
Lots of variants between years. What colour is it ? Dak blue or white?
Open the lower door. You have a double pulley in there. Slacken the belts off with both the motor adjustment and the idler shaft adjustment (knob on the outside), then you should be able to work the rest out for yourself.
Not a bad machine, for a 14" saw and all the limited size that entails. The frame is capable of more work than the motor can power. Guides are best using Cool Blocks (from Axminster) rather than the soft red plastic or the rather poor bearing guide set. Fence improved a few years ago.
Standard bearings, particularly the wheels, are cheap junk and wear out rapidly. Things improve with a cheap trip to a bearing shop (take the wheels along - they can press them for you).
Definitely get a copy of Duginske. Lonnie Bird isn't a bad read either, but Duginske is the one you'd keep around long term.
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