How long would you expect a pegler full bore lever operated ball valve to last if not operated? I need to re plumb couple of radiators and draining down complete system is a real pain. Im thinking i can put ball valves on pipe work and once completed turn on and leave on. It will be under a tiled suspended floor so not easily accessible for repair afterwards. Would I be better to cap off complete work and then freeze and use compression coupler to rejoin?
I understand you're asking about the longevity of a Pegler full bore lever operated ball valve that won't be operated. To address your concern, here's my best advice:
Consider the environment: Ball valves are made of materials that can deteriorate over time, so it's important to consider the environment they will be in. If the valves are in a damp, humid, or corrosive environment, they may not last as long as they would in a dry, protected area.
Make sure the valve is suitable: Ball valves are designed for certain applications, so make sure that the type you've chosen is suitable for your specific needs. For example, if you're using the valve in a high-pressure system, make sure it's rated for that type of pressure.
Operate the valve regularly: If you're not going to be operating the valve, it's still a good idea to do so regularly. This will help keep the valve in good working order and prevent it from seizing up or becoming difficult to operate.
Consider the size of the valve: The size of the valve you choose can also impact its longevity. If the valve is too small, it may not last as long as a larger valve, as it will have to work harder to control the flow of water.
Maintenance: Regular maintenance of your ball valve is important to keep it in good working order. This includes checking the valve for leaks, tightening any loose parts, and cleaning the valve if necessary.
Given the information above, I would advise you to cap off the work and then freeze and use a compression coupler to rejoin. This will be the simplest and most economical solution, as it will reduce the risk of damaging the valve or the surrounding pipes.
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I wouldn’t use ball valves in your situation. What kind of CH system do you have, open vented (with a header tank) or sealed?
If the latter, if you depressurise the system first you won’t lose much water when you cut a pipe. Once cut, use a re-useable stop end fitting (eg
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) to stop any dribbling. To remake, use plastic speedfit or brass compression fittings, whichever you’re most comfortable with.
If it’s an open vented system, you can buy (or improvise) bungs for the header tank outlet and vent pipe to effectively seal your system so that water doesn’t flood out when you cut a pipe.
While some seam to have problems with ball valves, I tend to find them OK - especially if you buy decent ones.
You tend to get one of two problems, they either weep around the shaft when operated (but usually only when open), or they let by slightly when closed. The shaft weeping I have only seen on budget screwdriver operated isolation valves, not on decent lever or butterfly handle operated ones. The let by problem is far less common, and does not really mater for this application anyway.
I have used leaver valves for drain down controls on CH systems (valve inside - pipe running through a wall to drain over a gully outside), and also have a couple of butterfly valves either side of the Fernox TF1 magnetic / cyclonic filter. They get operated occasionally when cleaning the filter or adding inhibitor.
I would go for full bore valves with the butterfly handle like:
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Not really. Obviously you retain that option whatever you do, but it would be nice to keep that as a last resort.
The outlet to my washing machine drips when off so I bought a Pegler to replace it. The old valve had barely - if any - overlap when closed; the Pegler has at least a mm. Haven't got a tuit yet so no idea if it works.
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