anybody got one of these ?
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 10:10:53 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
A mate has a more expensive one that he considers to be good.
For charging I believe they monitor the 'lift' in voltage from loaded
with engine off to with it running.
I like how they describe the DB15 connector as an OBD connector. ;-)
If there is *any* sort of current carried up the fairly heavy leads,
I'm guessing they must have wired the DB15 plug and socket with
multiple pins shorted each side / end?
Such a tool might be 'ok' for people who don't know how to use a DMM
as I'm not sure how useful most of the other things that you couldn't
do with a DMM are?
Cheers, T i m
On Friday, 12 July 2019 10:44:48 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
Internal battery resistance is key to starting ability & is a way to measur
e battery ageing. So you can use that to assess usefulness of out-of-car ba
tteries. Once fitted, cranking voltage is adequate to give some idea of sta
rtability, though it's no precise guide. Some oldies give the battery a rea
l hard time during starting, and some modern diesels require high cranking
voltage to start at all.
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 03:05:52 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
<snip> >> Such a tool might be 'ok' for people who don't know how to use a DMM
Sure, but who would use that and when? 'Most people' just start their
cars until they don't start, then give it to a garage (or call their
breakdown service) and garages are likely to have better tools in any
I have a discharge tester for that. Not a lot beats them for a RW
test. I also have a ACT capacity tester but rarely take any notice of
anything other than the capacity reading.
Quite ... and if it no longer starts your car you get a new battery
 and this could be 35 quid towards it. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
 Or we would do some diagnostics with a DMM / battery charger
ourselves first (assuming no other tools). Cranking voltage, charging
voltage (on and off the vehicle) and even the charging time (from
supposedly flat) gives some big clues (as to the capacity).
p.s. Whenever I've tried to take a functional battery back within
warranty because of capacity loss, I've found it very hard to persuade
them that it is now way off what it should be. Basically, if it isn't
'faulty' they often consider it ok. I guess they might consider
capacity loss 'wear and tear' but it could also be some disconnected
plates, especially with sealed batteries when you can't see in each
Not IME they don't.
Three times I told the garage the battery was failing and they "tested"
it and said it was OK.
Then the car wouldn't start.. Oh its because you don't run it for far
enough to charge it was the excuse.
The next time it was your dash cam is flattening it.
The third time I called the RAC and they came out and did a twenty
minute test on the battery, the tester decided the battery was less than
50% of its capacity so they replaced the battery.
Told the garage to get a better tester and someone that knew how to use it.
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