Achieving an even finish with Hammerite

Hi all,
I've spent 70 quid on new bits for this oil immersed welder I bought a whil e ago and it's now back in top condition electro-mechanically speaking. But the outside casing has been badly neglected and most of the original paint is gone. Anyway, I've splashed out on some Hammerite (hammer finish type) in dark gr een to maintain the original colour and was wondering the best way to apply it for an even finish. I've no access to sprayguns so I thought about usin g a small foam roller for the purpose. Would that do the trick or has anyon e a better suggestion?
cheers.
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On Sun, 4 Aug 2013 08:00:52 -0700 (PDT) snipped-for-privacy@virgin.net wrote:

Stippling with a brush works quite well as long as you apply the right amount - don't try to spread it on thin, don't go back over bits you've done.
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On 04/08/2013 16:00, snipped-for-privacy@virgin.net wrote:

Getting it clean & grease free is key.
get Hammerite well stirred - much more than normal paint .... apply with a 2-3" brush, and apply thickly, after about 2-3 mins you can go over lightly with brush to smooth out ... then don't be tempted to do that again later as it will drag.
Wr4ap brush in cling film to stop it going off.
Once touch dry, put on second coat ... if you leave it longer you have to wait a couple of weeks before putting on 2nd coat. Throw brush away.
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On Monday, 5 August 2013 10:08:40 UTC+2, Rick Hughes wrote:

while ago and it's now back in top condition electro-mechanically speaking. But the outside casing has been badly neglected and most of the original p aint is gone.

k green to maintain the original colour and was wondering the best way to a pply it for an even finish. I've no access to sprayguns so I thought about using a small foam roller for the purpose. Would that do the trick or has a nyone a better suggestion?

Thanks, guys. I've got some Gunk for degreasing purposes. Will that be sufficient by itse lf or do I need to go over it again afterwards with meths or something?
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On Mon, 5 Aug 2013 03:31:16 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@virgin.net wrote:

See previous post, Hammerite has changed. Read the instructions on the tin. Wire brush and remove dust with damp cloth is what I remember for my hinges but they didn't have any oil/grease on them so there maybe a degrease requirement that I didn't pay any attention to.
--
Cheers
Dave.
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On Mon, 05 Aug 2013 09:08:40 +0100, Rick Hughes wrote:

Those are "old" instructions. Just used some "new" hammerite, albeit smooth not hammered, and the instructions on the tin said minimal stiring, recoat in four hours (touch was about an hour maybe less) and nothing about having to wait weeks if you miss the recoat timing.
It's certainly bung a good amount on, brush out and leave. If you go back and "fiddle" it will drag. It's a bit like the "one coat" gloss paints, a balance between enough to self level but not so uch it runs.

Cling film while still required then chuck is still correct. B-)
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Throw the Hammerite away and use POR15.
--
Today is Boomtime, the 71st day of Confusion in the YOLD 3179
RIP John Weldon Cale (December 5, 1938 – July 26, 2013), aka JJ Cale
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On Monday, 5 August 2013 20:37:03 UTC+2, Huge wrote:

Wot?
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On Mon, 5 Aug 2013 14:36:39 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@virgin.net wrote:

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproductsByBrand.asp?brand=POR-15&brandCode=Z7&pageno=1
--
rbel

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