Hammerite

[Howard]

I googled a bit for this subject, but can't find specifics regarding radiators,

Is it recommended or not, to use spray on Hammerite (gloss white) on a bathroom rad?

[Howard]

I hope I haven't offended anyone with this simple request for information.

[:::Jerry::::]

No answer often means no one knows....

How about emailing the paint manufacture tech' support dept. ?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I've never needed to re-paint a white rad, and for others where I've wanted them the same colour as the room have just used the same paint as for the woodwork. Of course you're presumably worried about the white paint yellowing with the heat?

If the rad needs re-painting because it is rusty, I'd say that rust will come through again regardless of the paint used and before it has time to discolour significantly.

[Andrew Chesters]

Never tried Hammerite itself.

There are special radiator paints out there. I've tried two, a brush-on type that was truly foul to use and it gassed horribly, and a spray made by "Plasti-kote". Whilst this is not particularly nice to use, it a) is less offensive, and b) covers pretty well. Dries in an hour.

[Howard]

I thank you.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Strange snipping. ;-)

[Tim S]

I've used spray hammerite on hot surfaces to good effect. Degrease and sand surface with emery to get a good key. I would recommend hammerite primer first. Then spray several thin coats of the finish. Hammerite likes being baked on, but it *will* stink for some time (days/weeks) after you run the rad up. The smell eventually subsides completely.

But wouldn't the OP be better with proper radiator enamel?

HTH

Tim

[Dave Liquorice]

They look white but compared to real white they are pretty thin on the paint side and the metal shows through...

Aye, and I find the oil based and slow drying "one coat" stuff pretty damn good. Yes, it's oil based so a bit niffy (but nothing like hammerite) and as it dries so slowly (16hrs...) and has a fairly high surface tension produces an excellent finish. Whack in on moderately thickly (to thick and it'll run) roughly brush out and *leave it alone* the brush marks *will* disappear in 30 mins to an hour.

ISTR that if you pick the right one it is suiable for rads or maybe they don't mention it where as most other paints do. (I could just be ignoring any disclaimer though!).

[doozer]

I would certainly recommend the plasti-kote sprays. I recently did a radiator in copper using them and it worked brilliantly. As others have said it does smell for a while (about a week) and while it still smells I found you can't hang things on the radiator to dry or it will damage the finish (I accidentally lent on it about 2 days after I sprayed it).

At the time I wondered about looking for a high temp lacquer or something that I could spray over the top to give it a harder finish but it seems to have toughened up now so I didn't never got round to it.

Graham

Andrew Chesters wrote:

[Peter Hawkins]

Just make sure you have plenty of ventilation. Sister in law is nurse in intensive care. She cared for a fella who died after doing a bathroom radiator in Hamerite with the door and window closed. He tried baking it with the heating on. The massive release of fumes did for him.

[Christian McArdle]

I wouldn't spray solvent based paints unless I had professional equipment and facilities. Brushing works fine, particularly if you work quickly, keep the edges fresh and paint the radiator flat on the ground, which prevents gravity assisted runs and encourages self levelling.

Christian.