Using Hammerite Smooth finish on a some box & angle steel additions to a box trailer.
Previously the instructions said re-coat within 4 Hrs or leave for 6 weeks.
It no longer says that ... just that it is re-coatable after 4 Hrs .. Assume this changed when Finnegans ceased to be owners and they changed formulation. (no longer Carbon Tetrachloride as solvent)
Even the web site has no restriction on re-coats.
Anybody found any issues with putting 2nd coat on the next day ?
Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of hammershite...?
/Adrian Is it too late to suggest using decent paint, instead of hammershite...? /q
Suggest away.....??
Jim K
Shall we start at Dulux and work upwards?
A few years back, I asked a specialist paint supplier about the best stuff to use on some car suspension I was going to be rotary wire- brushing up. I was actually asking about their zinc-rich "cold-galv" paints, but they pointed me away from them (great if blast-cleaned, not so hot if only "mechanically" cleaned). They suggested Rustoleum 769.
Actually, if a smooth and glossy finish is less important, I'd be just breaking out the schutz gun. It's what I'm planning on doing on the single-wheel trailer when I get round to it.
I always Found the Hamerite what I used to call bumpy finish, lasted longer than the smooth. I think like a lot of paints, as chemicals which are allowed changed the paint got more and more diluted or weak.
Brian
There is another two didgit paint that gets mentioned in here but memory fails me other than possibly tractors and 35.
The mind boggles at a single wheel trailer. Isn't it a little unstable when not coupled up?
They seem to go hand-in-hand with Beetles
The trailer already painted in the stuff ... so seemed logical to redo it in same .... Smooth finish silver.
I also have had boat trailers and Hammerite is useless for those .... salt-water just eats right though the 'dimples' in hammer finish.
I need at some point to strip trailer down ... and repaint all frame - maybe I'll look at something better then.
Best approach would be to remove all existing paint (not an easy task) then spray with acid-etch primer, then coat with a 2-part epoxy paint.
as I mentioned earlier .. have had many boats trailers and for years coated with 'hammer' finish, with repeated dunking in Salt-water the dimples are a thin clear lacquer .... it would soon have rust spots on the dimples. Then water would get under the Hammerite hard coat ... and not long before big pieces would flake off.
I swapped to smooth finish and that seemed to fair better or boat trailers.
However as it has new formulation no idea how long stuff will last now. On this project ... I extended draw bar on a 5'x4' box trailer, so wanted to paint that to match metalwork of trailer - which is silver Hammerite.
Not sure if the change of solvent base has any negative or positive impact on longevity ....maybe somebody here will know.
I assume Tricho has now been banned - one of my first jobs was in a company that had huge heated tanks of the stuff for degreasing cable conductors prior to extruding on the insulation. Read a few year later that exposure to Tricho fumes causes live damage ... and they had open heated vats of the stuff ... :-(
May be you are referring to Tractol paint.
ISTR this may be a spray only finish as it used to dry too quick for brush application.
ISTR that the Hammerite finish was based on an error in manufacturing. It a;ways struck me as being akin to the 'Fisheyes' effect in lacquer when applied over something tainted with silicon.
Any paint finish is only as good as the surface preparation
Get it sand-blasted.
cost is very high when I have looked at this before
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