12/24V LED downlighters, low profile and IP65 or better

[Tim Watts]

I'm having trouble meeting all those critera for my wetroom... I wondered if anyone might be able to recommend a source or make of LEDs?

Low profile = about 8cm or less depth from rimp to back, 6cm would be better. Lots of free air in the void for cooling, just not that much depth before it hits celotex.

I'd much prefer 12 or 24V constant voltage units rather than "comes with its own obscure constant current driver that produces random voltages".

And IP65 or better is a requirement (technically I could get away with IPx4 according to the regs) but this is going in Zone 1 on a low ceiling (2m) over an open shower. That's why I want SELV 12 or 24V too - mains may be permissible but it would seem to be a crap idea :)

Cheers,

Tim

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Tim Watts writes

CPC carry the Enlite range of LED downlights. IP44 at least and can be dimmed. Flush mounted but mains operated.

[Vir Campestris]

LEDs need a constant current to work well. If you feed them a fixed voltage, when they get a little warm their resistance drops. So they pass more current, and get warmer. Quickly. Very much warmer. Bang follows soon after.

Andy

[Tim Watts]

Please explain LED tapes :)

And the 24V striplights I have in my kitchen...

Also, there remains the possibility to put a localised driver on board, but fed from 12 or 24V rather than mains.

[Tim Watts]

Mains is no good (my requirement, not BS7671) - I am of the opinion that

230V cables on foil backed vapour barrier plasterboard 10" over my head in a wet/steamy environment is a bit of a crap idea.

But thanks for saying CPC - I'll have a hunt around there - and RS...

Next stop - boat/caravan place where 12V and 24V are common... And expensive, probably :)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

The source voltage is irrelevant. It's the current through the LED which matters. The cheap way is to use a series resistor to restrict the maximum current - but there are more efficient ways of doing it.

The driver doesn't have to be close to the actual LEDs. But you may want one which is safe for your application, as regards voltage.

[Vir Campestris]

suggests an inline resistor, like Mr Plowman suggests. Efficient that is not.

I could guess.

Sure. That's probably the best bet - install your own constant current supply.

Andy