Low-profile electricals

[Bert Coules]

I'm about to lose an existing double-gang wall socket behind a new wardrobe, and would like to run a plugged-in extension lead from it to a new surface-mounted socket just beside the wardrobe.

What little exposed flex there will be between the edge of the wardrobe and the new surface box can be trunked in, so I'm not concerned about exposing it to potential damage.

I've been trying to find out if there's a surface-mount box (single-gang would do) with less protrusion than the usual 25mm (purely because it would look less clunky).

And also if it's possible to get a conventional-type three-pin plug with less depth than the standard (since there's not going to be much clearance behind the wardrobe).

I've looked in the obvious places but without luck; I wonder if I'm using the wrong search terms. Any pointers in the right direction would be very welcome. Thanks.

[jon]

I cut a hole in the back panel of the wardrobe so I could maintain access to the switches.

[Bert Coules]

I thought about that, but I'd still need to run to a more accessible socket. If a non-switched socket can be fitted to a shallower-than-normal box I'd happily use one, but is that possible? I've seen 16mm boxes but my impression is that they're only deep enough for (say) a light switch.

[Jeff Layman]

How about using a 13A fused spur with flex outlet? It might be possible to take the flex to an extension socket (assuming it's allowed under regulations). No plug needed.

[Steve Walker]

You can get 16mm boxes, but I don't think you'd get a socket in one.

I've never seen a low profile plug, but what's stopping you putting a cutout in one edge of the existing socket to run a spur directly from the terminals to the new one? A bit of a bodge, but very practical.

[Theo]

+1

Any socket is going to be at least as deep as the pins on the plug, so there's a limit to how slim you can be. Using a fused spur avoids the depth of both the pins on the plug and the screw terminals inside the plug.

(Can you fit a fused spur inside a 16mm box?)

Theo

[Bert Coules]

That's a nice idea. But the soon-to-be-hidden switched socket is a double; is it possible to replace that with a single fixed spur?

[Bert Coules]

Annoyingly, I used to have one (and possibly several) branded, of all things, "BBC" - possibly dating from the time when the Corporation did actually have all manner of equipment manufactured to its own specs.

The main thing stopping me is that it would indeed be a bit of a bodge (albeit one safely hidden away)...

[charles]

Yes, I think I've got one or two of those, but they fell out of favour. If you used a decent thickness of mains cable the retaining screw, not going right down, punched hole in the top cover.

[ARW]

It is if you use modular parts

But why not just do away with the double socket, joint through with wago connectors and run a bit of 2.5mm T&E to the new socket and fit a 2g blanking plate over the old socket?

[Bert Coules]

That's probably the most straightforward suggestion so far; thanks, Adam.

[charles]

I did soemthing like that when we moved into this house, so we could put a piano against one wall. Didn't use WAGOs since they weren't aroungb in 1977

[Fredxx]

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket and sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

[nothanks]

I did exactly the same thing today as part of the round tuit to finish the utility room. The washing machine socket would have been behind the sink so a couple of horizontal cuts with a multi tool, some SDS bashing, some out of date bonding and a little bit of "easy fill" - 2 hours from start to end, and a little painting tomorrow.

[Dave Plowman (News]

Could you make one up using grid components?

[Bert Coules]

None, beyond the mess and inconvenience in a completed and decorated room.

Thanks for the thought.

[Fredxx]

That is largely down to the wall. I presume this is brick and plaster?

If you like new tools:

[Roger Hayter]

If it were soft blocks or bricks and the room was furnished I think I'd rather spend a few minutes longer and produce a lot lest dust using a few pilot holes and a cold chisel.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Why not do the job properly and chase cable into the wall and use a flush socket? after all the mess you make will be covered by the wardrobe anyway

[The Natural Philosopher]

I did similar to extend a cat 5 cable from an upstairs bedroom to the kitchen. had to remove a couple of square feet of plasterboard to allow access to drill diagonally down to where the socket was required in te kitchen...ended up with lots of filler and sanding..well that room is now nearly redecorated all over. Which it had coming anyway