Is it possible to replace just this tiny ring in the Nikon lens?
It's a Nikon DX VR: AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G lens on a Nikon D5000.
I dropped the camera and the only thing that broke was this tiny piece of
plastic around the lens (which, unfortunately, holds the lens on the
I'm not a camera expert but if I could buy the part, I could figure out
maybe how to install it on the lens.
In addition, after dropping the camera, I realized I need a lens
protector (glass filter?) for the outside of the lens. Where best can I
get one cheap mailorder?
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 23:02:40 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
Funny you should mention that. I did exactly the same thing with the
same lens. That broken flange stops the lens from locking on to the
camera body. It's a very common problem when the camera is dropped.
I took it to my local camera repair shop and was told that the part
needed would cost him $70 and he'd add labor to that. He said that
Nikon charges $110.00 for the repair.
And, he told me in no uncertain terms that repairing the lens would be
a waste of money. A replacement lens can be obtained on eBay for
about $100, and that's a faster and probably cheaper way to go if you
really want to continue to use the lens.
I use either my Nikon 35mm prime lens or my 18/200 Tamron lens
As far as you buying the part, I tried to take my lens apart to see if
I could do that, but I can't figure out how to do it. It unscrews,
but there's a doohickey attached that I can't figure out.
As far as a filter, a lens hood is more protection, but you could buy
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
This is a better protective device:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)41537834&sr=8-2&keywordsRmm+rubber+lens+hood
On Thu, 05 Jul 2012 21:25:15 -0400, tony cooper wrote:
Wow. $30 is 20% of the cost of a new lens (at $150 for the lens on
Something seems wrong.
How could a simple non-moving low-tech screw on filter be that expensive
relative to an entire zoom lens?
From an engineering standpoint, I must be missing something fundamental.
Can someone clue me in to what is the reason for the huge expense of such
a simple part?
Now we're talking bang for the buck!
- Screw on AGFA 52mm Heavy Duty Rubber Lens Hood APSLH52 $4.50
It seems this hood will screw onto the lens and that the filter can screw
onto this hood, right?
BTW, how did you know that the "DX VR: AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G
lens" was 52mm?
On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 05:45:02 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
Yeah. Paying $150 when the lens is available new for a third less
Yes, but why? Read on.
Because I have the same lenses. My first DSLR was a Nikon D40. It's
basically the same camera as you have, and uses the same lenses.
The only thing different about my 18-55 is I don't have the VR
(Vibration Reduction). I don't think that's needed with the 18-55,
but is with the 55-200.
Look, on this filter thing, think it out. Use some logic.
There are three basic causes for lens damage:
1. Dropping the lens or the whole. A protective filter offers
absolutely no protection from drops unless the contact point is
directly to the lens.
2. Bumping the camera with lens attached. When you have the camera
strap around your neck, and the camera swings around, it can bump into
things. Again, unless the contact point is directly to lens, a filter
does no good at all.
3. Sand, and other debris, getting on the lens and causing scratches
if the lens is cleaned improperly. A filter stops this, but the
filter is damaged if cleaned improperly. Filters aren't free.
The better solutions are the use of your lens cap when you aren't
actually shooting and the use of a lens hood at all times.
The lens hood acts as a bumper, so incidents in #1 and #2 are far less
likely to result in lens damage when the contact point is the directly
towards the lens. It doesn't guarantee the lens won't be damaged, but
it significantly reduces the chances. Significantly.
I prefer the rubber lens hoods instead of the rigid plastic or metal
hoods. The rubber lens hoods can be rolled back instead of removed to
fit the camera in your bag or when the hood creates a shadow when the
built-in flash is used.
There's an argument that cheaper filters degrade the image, but I'm
not going to get into that. It's not a proven thing either way.
The conclusion I reached is a) always keep the lens cap on when not
shooting, b) use a rubber hood at all times, and c) don't waste money
on a filter.
Make your own decision, though.
neither are lenses. it's a whole lot better to replace a $10 filter
than a $100 lens (in this case).
4. the lens cap comes off inside the camera bag and scratches nearby
glass. this happened to me. fortunately, i had a filter and only had to
replace the filter.
true, but that has nothing to do with using a filter. both a lens cap
and a hood can be used with filters.
the rigid hoods flip around so there's no issue in fitting in a camera
bag. they are also more effective since they're built for a specific
lens and the aspect ratio of the sensor. rubber hoods are generic.
as for shadows, learn how to properly use flash and you won't get a
it is definitely proven, but if you can't see the difference then you
don't need to buy expensive filters.
Nonsense. The face of the lens is the least exposed element if the
camera is dropped.
The lens hood offers more protection.
There's a better solution than a cheap filter: a lens cap.
Buy better lens caps. I've never had that happen.
Built for a specific lens? Only in diameter to fit just like the
generic rubber hoods that screw on. Have you actually ever seen the
Nikon rigid lens hoods for these lenses? They are generic for all
52mm lenses. It has nothing to do with the sensor. What kind of
bullshit are you on about now?
The rubber hoods screw on and stay on. Much less bother than
The built-in flash (which is what I specified in my statement) will
cause a shadow with the lens hood on when you are photographing
close-ups (aka: macros, but not real macros). No technique used the
photographer can stop that. When doing close-ups using the built-in
flash, you need to either remove a rigid hood or roll back the rubber
Personally, I use a Nikon Speedlight instead of the built-in flash.
I can't see the difference because I don't use cheap filters.
I agree. The lens cap that came with the camera is a pain to take off and
on and off and on and off and on and off and on and off and on and off
and on ... all day ... every day.
Most of the time, I leave it off.
I do need a filter. I'm convinced of that, if for nothing else, than to
protect the lens from what happened to my last zoom lens (when the boy
scouts dropped it on the rocks and cracked it).
Sigh. If it 'can' happen, it already has happened to me:
a) Battery doors fall off (coolpix p&s)
b) Battery charger destroys battery (coolpix cp5000)
c) Lenses break (see photo above & the whole point of this thread)
d) Cameras stop working (see photo below)
What I need is a low cost (~$1,000) 'war camera'.
Do they make one?
Ah, yes, you want the filter *and* the front elements to break
under the impact. Sure thing, go ahead. We need someone to
funnel money into the industry.
Yes, if you force them all the time, some day they will fall off.
Usually people can get 5 or 10 years out of them.
I'm sure there was a passage in the instructions not to leave
the battery in for days.
Happens every time you use them as sledge hammers.
But, duh, at these cheap lens prices you can buy a lot.
Happens every time you use them as sledge hammers.
But, duh, at these cheap camera prices you can buy quite a few.
It's called a sledge hammer. They're much cheaper. They take
a *lot* of mishandling. You can drop them from over your head.
You can smash them into rocks and concrete walls. They can be
taken most everywhere. They should do almost everything you need.
They can even take a bullet.
You can even make images with them, just use a chisel and a stone
plate. But don't whack it to hard, or the image quality suffers.
Anyway, a normal ruggedized camera won't work for you. Not
even something like (random url)
An additional deep underwater housing won't work for you.
You need to look at stuff like
Military cameras such as
won't handle the abuse you routinely subject your cameras to.
On Tue, 10 Jul 2012 03:12:33 -0500, Neil Ellwood wrote:
Realistically, I 'have' told the kids to always use the Nikon camera
strap when they borrow my plastic Nikon SLR ... and I do like the idea of
the camera 'skin' that was proposed (although it omits protection of the
all-important plastic lens).
In hindsight, looking at all my broken plastic cameras, most of my point-
and-shoot cameras fail on the fragile battery doors (Nikon Coolpix
varieties) and on the pop-out lens (Olympus varieties).
So, the rule there is avoid at all cost any Nikon plastic point and shoot
unless/until they learn how to design a door hinge ... and basically
avoid 'any' point and shoot that has a motorized pop-out lens (Olympus or
Looking back at all the plastic SLRs, I'm astounded to realize it's
mostly the lenses that broke, almost all at the fragile plastic bayonet
mount, although one stopped working mysteriously just after snapping
photos in the pumice of Thera, probably because of the very fine dust
One plastic camera broke from the sulfuric fumes of swimming in the
waters around a just-submerged volcano (which also claimed my otherwise
rugged Rolex watch, interestingly enough). Yet another failed to survive
its very first cross-country ski trip down Mount Washington on my New
Year's Eve vacation trip.
So, in summary, a rough visual autopsy shows that the plastic lens mounts
(on all the plastic Nikons I've owned) and plastic door hinges (only on
the plastic Nikon Coolpix variety I've owned) and motorized lenses are
what seem to break on these plastic (essentially throwaway) cameras.
Next time, I'll buy a sturdier camera for sure, as I realized, belatedly,
that it has cost me far more for the cheap plastic Nikons than if I had
bought a camera actually built to handle daily use in the real world.
Why on Earth are you letting the kids have the opportunity to damage
What exactly are you doing to damage all these battery doors? If you
use a little care when opening them they will certainly last
indefinitely, so there is something else going on with those
experiencing these problems. My very first Nikon camera, a 3MP CP770 is
still working in the hands of my "Step-daughter from Hell".
That might be a rule for you and your level of rough usage.
Why are you astounded? They are the least expensive and least rugged
lenses Nikon markets. Do not expect the same level of performance and
construction out of a $350-$500 Nikon lens as you would get from one of
their $860-$2200 lenses.
...and now there are two Rolex watches on the casualty list.
Please list the physical injuries you have sustained as you wreaked
mayhem upon the machinery around you.
How did motorized lenses get into this?
You are viewing the World of cameras through a very distorted lens.
On Tue, 10 Jul 2012 19:00:02 -0400, tony cooper wrote:
This is great information.
But how do you know that?
That is, what specific 'feature' do I look for in a lens to know if it
will work with my existing D40/D60/D5000 Nikons and how it will work in a
'future' unspecified as yet Nikon 'war camera'?
Is it the "AF-S" feature alone?
it's common knowledge, and it also says that in the specs.
a 'war camera' is likely to have a focus motor in the body because it's
not going to be a low end model.
af-s means the lens has an internal focus motor so it doesn't matter if
there is one in the camera body.
non af-s lenses do not have an internal focus motor, which means the
camera body has to have the motor. if you use a non-afs lens on a
camera that lacks a focus motor, it will not autofocus. however, the
autofocus system is still running and you will have focus confirmation
as you manually turn the focus ring.
This is great information.
So, do I have it right based on what you kindly wrote?
1. The so-called Nikon 'war camera' is likely to have a focus motor in
the body while the D-series Nikons I own (D50/D60/D5000) do not have a
focus motor in the body.
2. Nikon AF-S lenses have a focus motor in the lens while non AF-S lenses
have no focus motor.
3. I can use any Nikon AF-S lens in any Nikon camera and it will
automatically focus (because there is at least one focus motor).
4. I can use any Nikon non-AF-S lens in any Nikon camera but it will not
automatically focus in the D-series cameras I own (because there is no
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 01:49:16 +0000 (UTC), "Arklin K."
There is no "war camera". That's your own invention. If you would
ask a credentialed combat photo-journalist why he chose the cameras he
carries, he'd talk about the features non-related to durability. His
"war" preparation is more likely to be his camera bag because he's
concerned about how the camera is protected when *not* being used.
Sgt Jeremy Lock was Military Photographer of the Year in 2007. He
carries a Nikon D2X. You could break a D2X just as easily as a D40.
the d50 has a focus motor. the others do not.
you can tell by a mechanical coupling pin around the 7 o'clock position
when looking into the mirror box, or by just trying a non-afs lens.
as for a mythical war camera, it's likely to have a motor because only
midrange and high end cameras are weather sealed and ruggedized, and
those are the cameras that users with a lot of lenses tend to buy, so
there's a motor included for the older lenses they might already have.
low end bodies are rarely used with more than 1 or 2 lenses, normally
the kit lenses which have their own focus motors, so there's no point
in having an additional and redundant motor in the body that won't ever
get used. as a result, the camera can be lighter and less expensive.
low end bodies are not going to be ruggedized or sealed, so you really
don't need to worry about a focus motor.
yes if the camera is an autofocus body *and* knows about af-s lenses,
which goes back 10-15 years (i don't remember exactly when they first
came out). obviously, older manual focus bodies will not autofocus.
older nikon autofocus bodies do not know about af-s lenses because af-s
had not yet been released, so they will only focus with lenses that
have a mechanical coupling. the logic for af-s is not in the camera and
it actually has fewer pins on the mount.
correct, almost (ignoring the d50 which has a motor).
the issue is with very old non-ai lenses from the 1960s and early
1970s. those will not fit on most recent nikon cameras and are almost
guaranteed to cause damage if you try.
however, they *will* fit on the nikon bodies that don't have focus
motors, e.g., d40, d60, etc. without damaging them.
this is not a guarantee and whether this remains true in the future is
unknown. it's more of a fluke that they work, as opposed to being a
deliberate design decision by nikon to maintain compatibility with 50
year old lenses.
if you have a non-ai lens, you *must* check to see if it will cause
damage and be absolutely positive it will not. if you aren't sure, do
not even try.
it's unlikely you have any of those lenses or ever will because they're
so old, so i wouldn't worry too much about it. however, just in case
you do or find a lens at a garage sale for a buck or two that happens
to be non-ai, you need to check before you damage something, which you
seem to do so easily.
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