Most are made of polypropelene. Some are made of Polyethelene. The table was likely made of ABS orPVC
Most are made of polypropelene. Some are made of Polyethelene. The table was likely made of ABS orPVC
There are very few things I'm gonna disagree with you on.
Just like the garbage-bin guy, it sounds great to tell me to buy the right plastic (or coating) after asking what's the plastic (or coating) used - but in practice that's shit advice because there are a billion kinds of plastic and you have to know which are the better ones.
Same with rotors.
I've heard everything there is to hear from people telling me about crappy Chinese rotors. While I generally go Brembo or Meyle, if someone else gave me a good price, I'd go with them.
If I hear one more guy tell me to buy Zimmerman drilled and slotted, I'm gonna go postal on him. He's the same guy that insists that rotor warp caused his brake-related vibration at speed. Run, do not walk, run away from those people.
Same with anyone who tells me to buy good solid rotors.
I have nothing against quality but you can't tell a good solid rotor from a bad solid rotor if they're the same thickness, same cooling veins, etc.
You just can't. How are you gonna know the metallurgy? Really?
You can't. You just can't.
Unless you give me a way to tell (other than just saying a brand name), then I'm not gonna believe the advice ... not because it's not true advice ... but because it's like saying don't breathe when someone farts.
You can't give advice that is unusable in practice.
Specifically, how are you gonna know a good rotor metallurgy from bad rotor metallurgy if all you have are two unbranded rotors in your hands that are the same size and cooling vein arrangement?
I forgot about that tool. Yup. $10 and you have a brake-pad-sized C clamp that pushes the piston(s) back into the calipers. Thanks for reminding me of that tool. I only have one, which is fine - but someday I'll buy a second one so that I can do both wheels on an axle at the same time. :)
Nope. But I'm not ever going to say that a rotor "can't" warp (because it can).
But I will tell you I have heard ten thousand times that some idiot says his rotors warped and each time I asked him how he *measured* it, and guess what?
Never once in my life have I found a single person who has *measured* the warp.
You know why? They don't even know *how* to measure rotor warp. They don't have the tools to measure rotor warp
(Hint: It requires a flat benchtop and feeler gauges and it's not hard - but they don't know that because they didn't measure a single thing.)
Nobody but nobody who claims their rotors warped actually measured a single thing. They lied. Worse, they don't even realize they lied. It's like the original sin. They have it and they don't even know it because they were born with it.
Street rotors just don't get hot enough to warp. They just don't.
It's pad deposition I tell ya. Now it could be other things too. But I'll betcha 90% of the time it's uneven pad deposition. And 0.0000000000000001% of the time, it's actually rotor warp.
What makes the morons think they're geniuses is that the short-term solution to both pad deposition and rotor warp is the same.
It's the long-term solution that is different.
That is, while the short term solution to both is the same, the long term solution to rotor warp is completely different than the long term solution to pad deposition.
And that's the shame because these two solutions are nothing alike even though most people do the wrong solution since street rotors just don't warp (in practice) because they can't get hot enough to warp.
Nope. Street rotors don't warp in practice. They don't get hot enough to warp. Look it up.
I'm not gonna disagree with you on too many things, but if ANYONE is gonna tell me their street rotors warped, I want them to tell me at what temperature steel gets that flimsy and I want them to tell me how they MEASURED the warp (because never once have I found anyone who said they warped who knew those two answers).
Sure you can *LOOK* up the answer. But they never did the measurement so they can't ever tell me offhand what I already know they don't know.
Doesn't burn any either - and it's 0w20, not 20w50.
Except Mazdas, Chevys, and Dodge trucks - - -
They now come pre-gapped - and the gap is HUGE - .060 to .085" instead of .028 to .035 - so accuracy is relative.
They don't wear/erode any more, so you don't "re-gap" them any more, By the time the gap has changed the combustion seals are getting iffy too, so younjust replace them.
With 20,000 volts, the gap was critical With 60,000 - not so much!!!
Or even 30
When I drive a 2.3 liter 4 cyl ranger down the 401 , my foot is pretty much on the floor, the manifold vacuum is zero, and the engine is working it's poor tail off. The 4 liter V6, is just loafing, throttle barely open - manifold pressure about 13-15 inches - barely working. A LOT easier on the engine. The gearing is such that the 4 cyl is turning 3000 RPM, the 4 liter 2200, and a 5.7 liter iforce Tundra about 1200 RPM at the same road speed.
Makes a BIG difference on engine wear and life.
As for "working harder" - specific power output - the amount of torque and horsepower per cubic inch of displacement -
Call it whatbyou may, but a small engine "works a lot harder" than a big engine to do the same work. - and generally doesn't last as long.
I left Canada for Africa at 21. I had been to the USA many times by then. I was out of country for 2 years.
My daghter turned 16 in France and had travelled to Mexico several times before that. She was an exchange student in France in Grade 10
Yup - no service on planes now unless you pay for it through the nose !!
Yup. It's gonna break when they are applying the most force.
All the kinky tools I just smile at when I see them in the store.
Basic stuff for me.
The only kinky things I need are the slimmer wrenches, the longer ones, the curved ones, the angled ones, etc., all of which are for the toughest jobs and where I generally buy them as oneoffs as needed.
Adjustable wrenches should be banned as a menace to society.
I have a logic tester for TTL circuits (TI 7100 series stuff, as I recall), but nothing for a car's "logic".
A good Fluke DMM is de rigueur though, I agree, for any homeowner.
And an attachment to measure the starter amperage.
But my point is that there doesn't seem to be a lot of "new fangled" tools that we need to work on for a car.
It's the same old tools, with minor exceptions of emissions and ECU/DMU/ABS control, isn't it?
The whole viscosity thing is a red herring where I live. You probably live in really cold areas, where it matters.
Where I live, a straight 30 or 40 would work just fine.
The whole "W" thing only lasts for a minute or two so it's gotta be cold to matter even the slightest bit.
Funny, but I never had any of them. I never had a truck though. Just cars and vans and SUVs, and, oh, yeah, station wagons in the days of yore.
Yeah. Plugs got easier. a. They last forever b. You don't gap them anymore (except in home tools)
And they're still cheap as they always were.
High voltage is nice. You'd think it would wear the metal, but with platinum, it doesn't.
The I4 and V6 engines are COMPLETELY DIFFERENT engines. Take Toyota's 3RZFE and the 5RZFE (from memory). Completely different engines. Both last forever.
Sure, one makes for more BHP, but in reality the gearing handles all that. Besides, did I mention they are COMPLETELY DIFFERENT engines?
You can't say one "lasts longer" than the other when all you're comparing is the external size of the engine.
All I'm saying is that the I4 leaves more room in the engine bay than does the V6. You don't argue with that, so we can accept that as a fact.
Now you're saying the I4 works harder and hence won't last as long, but I just don't take that on face value because I might not have mentioned this yet, but they're completely different engines.
Whether they last longer or not will depend on those billion completely different things, and not on whether they're working harder cruising at
60mph on the freeway or pulling into or out of your driveway.How long an engine lasts has more to do with how many cold starts it has than what you call "working harder".
Besides, I might not have mentioned this, but they're completely different engines, so you can't compare one thing and say that one thing will make one last longer or shorter. You just can't.
At least not with a serious look on your face you can't.
Nope. Not gonna buy that elixer today. Logic prevails.
There are so many OTHER factors that matter far more to engine life than the size of the engine displacement.
Just too many.
I'm not gonna argue that the V6 has develops more BHP than the I4 but I am gonna let you know a little secret.
Two little secrets in fact.
Now if you told me one engine had 10K cold starts and 20K short trips, while the other only had 1K cold starts and had mostly long trips, then
*that* would be a factor in engine life.But even then, it would only be one of a zillion factors. Displacement is just not gonna be a major determinant in engine life.
You can sell that one to other people. Just not to me. Displacement is just not gonna be a major determinant in engine life.
And even then, you still get no service. :)
Good to know, I didn't even know to *think* about how they did it. Thanks!
I agree also. I used to patch the junction between the pipes with that white stuff. Yuck. Never worked for more than a week (to get through inspection).
I did patch a holed gas tank once. Amazingly, it worked for the remaining life of the car.
My experience exactly.
I agree with you on this. I haven't had, AFAIK, a non SS exhaust in decades.
If it's that simple, what happened to the "UV coating" someone suggested?
Anyway, if it's that simple, I'm all for it.
Just like getting oil is simple (you aim for the lowest spread in viscosity and the highest SX rating alphabetically) and just like getting pads is simple (you aim for the highest cold/hot friction you can get) I'm all for simplicity in specifications.
So your recommendation is: a. Polypropylene or Polyethylene b. but not ABS or Polyvinylchloride
If that works, I'm ok with that. Simplicity is good. When it exists.
Still ... what about UV coating?
For example, eyeglasses get complex when it comes to UV coatings because some plastics don't need it while others do (although I always argue that naked eyeballs don't come with UV coatings so why do people with glasses need them when people without glasses don't need them?).
I'd have to do a little digging, but it's not an impossible question to answer. Google is your friend, but more importantly, you won't get a useful answer unless you can find out what plastic the table is made of before you buy it.
I am currently designing something that will be used outside and needs to be clear. Initially I was going to use polycarbonate as it is very strong. But it is not very tolerant of UV light unless coated, so I'm going with acrylic which withstands UV without coatings.
I know, I returned a lawn mower 10 years later. In my defense, it actually quit after two years and I got ticked off and shoved it in a shed. I couldn't find anyone I trusted who could work on a Honda mower, so I hired someone to mow the lawn. Eventually I cleaned out the shed and took the mower back to Costco. They didn't accept it back without... discussion, but I repeatedly referred them to their own policy written on the wall I was facing. So don't think Costco will honor the return policy completely.
Maybe they used stainless, but you paid for it, no?
A 20 year old Toyota T100 with 240,000 miles. Is that your typical crap?
I may have seen a tool like that somewhere and wondered what it was for :-(
I could only move the wrench in a
That's my point. I have bought stuff from TAP Plastics for example, and that's all they sell, and even THEY often have trouble telling me what the plastic is that I'm buying.
Not only do you have to know what plastic (and coating) you want, but you also have to ask someone who knows what they are selling.
It works for eyeglasses, for some reason, but I doubt it's gonna be easy to figure out the plastic on anything else that easily (at least not when you're in the store).
I get your point, which is that there are plastics which handle the sunlight (which I agree since my garbage cans handle it better than anythin else I've ever seen that is stored outside).
You just have to know the answer. And the people who sell the stuff have to know the answer.
Just an aside.
It might have happened a little on my mom's (end eventually mine) 88 Caddy. Slight vibration when braking, but they felt OK. Until 2 of the calipers seized 8 years later, of course :-( POS, I'll never own another GM product.
These looked like a high-school first-time lathe project. Each of the steel projections on the backing plate had dug out its own trench. Godawful noise, but the brakes still worked fine so I figured I could wait another month :-( (Not the Caddy, this was a 68/9 LTD.)
Do some research. Polyethylene is an incomplete description. It can be high density (milk cartons and canoes/kayaks and some lawn furniture) or low density (and a few other newer, specialty forms). Both types are susceptible to UV damage unless stabilizers are added.
I'm not so familiar with polypropylene and UV. I know most plastics are susceptible unless additives are used. There are lots of references available... read!
Toe is last. Adjustments to camber will alter toe. Adjustments to toe will not alter camber.
BTW, how's the camber scrub issue going with your vehicle?
Get it sorted yet?
Positive crankcase ventilation systems were the start of the improvements that led to long oil life, hence longer engine life. Add to that better metals, better combustion processes, fuel injection, computer control, electronic ignition systems.
Getting rid of the carburetor was a big improvement.
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